I recently turned 62 years young, and I’m a longtime fly-fishing addict. My drug of choice is swinging a fly through the mysterious currents of a cool-flowing river, but when I can’t get a fishing fix, I turn to fly tying for relief. The orderly process of tying frees me from worries and the grip of a chaotic world. Currently resting in the jaws of my vise is a hook waiting to be dressed in feathers and thread according to the Dave Whitlock design that he calls the NearNuff Sculpin. This is one of my favorite patterns for big browns and rainbows. Here’s how to tie it.
Begin by placing a size 6 TMC 5262 hook in the vise. Next, attach a strong olive thread behind the eye and wrap back a quarter of an inch, then forward to the hook eye. Do this three times, creating a thread base for painted barbell eyes. Tie them in on top of the hook — the finished fly will ride with the hook point up — about a quarter of an inch behind the hook eye, leaving enough room to wrap dubbing around and in front of the eyes, creating a large sculpin head. Secure the eyes with figure-eight thread wraps, check for straight eye placement, and then add a little superglue to the wraps. Wind the thread back to just short of the hook bend.
Now make a fish tail. Select two olive grizzly hen saddle or cape feathers and combine them in your hand so they lie flat together, concave sides facing each other. Create the tail by stroking the lower three-quarters of the barbules down and away from the stems (you will later palmer this part of the feathers over the body, as on a Woolly Bugger). With the stems extending toward the eye, tie in the tail at the bend on top of the hook shank. Tie in three or four strands of Krystal Flash on both sides where you tied in the tail and leave the bobbin hanging. Part of the Krystal Flash should extend beyond the length of the tail. Don’t trim the remaining Krystal Flash yet. Now make the body.
Begin by dubbing olive seal fur (or a substitute) onto the thread and wrapping it to just behind the eyes. Pull the untrimmed ends of Krystal Flash forward and secure them alongside the dubbed body. Then carefully wrap the rest of the feathers from the tail, spiraling them up to the rear of the barbell eyes. That finishes the body. Next create the head.
Dub the thread with olive dubbing material and figure-eight it around the eyes, stopping at the hook eye. Whip finish and apply some head cement. You’re finished.
When fishing the NearNuff Sculpin, there’s one presentation that I have found particularly effective. Although I usually quarter my cast downstream, swinging the fly across the current, there are times when an upstream presentation can prove to be just the ticket. Locate an undercut bank, preferably at the river’s bend, and cast upstream close to the bank. Hold the rod high and pull in the slack as the fly swims downstream. When you think the fly is where a fish might be, strip a little faster, tightening the line tension. Then wait to feel if the line suddenly goes slack. That’s the fish darting out from the security of the undercut bank, grabbing the steamer, and swimming downstream toward you. If the line goes slack, set the hook! Fish on.
That technique takes time to master, just as it takes time to master the art fly tying, but it’s worth the investment — give it a try. You’ll be very pleased with the NearNuff Sculpin. You should aways keep a few ready to go in your fly box. I certainly do.
