When I was growing up, fishing with my dad was an exhausting job. He was always on the go. He was a fanatic. From our home base in Paradise, California, we would load up the Blazer and venture into the northern Sierra to as many rivers and lakes as possible, always looking for that next special place. The Wild and Scenic Middle Fork of the Feather River is a discovery we made some forty years ago while traveling the trout route, Highway 89. This river is a real sweetheart, with a charm and personality all its own.
The Lay of the Land
What makes the Middle Fork of the Feather unique and so magnificent is that it technically starts on the eastern slope of the northern Sierra, then cuts through where the range ends and the volcanic landscape of the Cascades begins. The headwaters lie in the mountains surrounding the Sierra Valley, the fourth-highest dry lake bed in North America. Streams that enter this enormous valley include Little Last Chance Creek, Smithneck Creek, and Turner Canyon Creek (to name a few), and numerous braids of water come from above and below ground, twisting their way through the meadowlands and channels. The many seeps, springs, and streams join together near the Beckwourth-Calpine state route A-23 bridge on the west side of the valley, and from there, the Middle Fork of the Feather flows slowly downstream through eastern Plumas County. It then picks up momentum and rockets its way through vast granite gorges into Butte County, tumbling down the west slope of the Sierra through plunge pools and pocket water to Lake Oroville.
The river is managed by the U.S. Forest Service, and in 1968, it was one of the first rivers to receive a “Wild and Scenic” designation from the federal government. Many authors have declared it the most beautiful river in the state of California. The Forest Service divides the river into three sections, the first being a 65.4-mile Recreational Zone, which stretches between the towns of Beckwourth and Sloat. In this section, you will find the easiest access, as well as lodging, restaurants, and other amenities. The gorgeous 9.7-mile Scenic Zone, from Sloat downstream to just past Nelson Point, has some of the prettiest scenery on the river, and the fishing’s not bad, either. The Middle Fork of the Feather ends with the 32.9-mile Wild Zone, where access requires hard hiking or driving along very steep and technical four-wheel-drive roads. There are no services available along this latter stretch, but you’ll find plenty of snakes and other creatures, because this is the land where the wild things are. The Pacific Crest Trail crosses the river along this stretch, too, and is a good option for an angler’s first visit into the rugged canyon. The upper river in eastern Plumas County, relatively gentle in character, is lined with native grasses and conifers, while the lower end is dominated by granite that has been polished by the river over millennia. The banks of the Middle Fork vary so much along its length, with so many different qualities and habitats, that it can be a fascinating place to fish.
The entire length of the Middle Fork of the Feather River is undammed, making runoff predictions difficult during the winter and spring. Every year is different, depending on the snowpack, its water content, and passing weather systems, which can be arctic or tropical. The northern Sierra is a land of extremes when it comes to precipitation totals, and air temperatures cover a wide spectrum.
A section of this river opens to angling on the first Saturday of April, which is several weeks earlier than the general Sierra trout season. This section, which is highly accessible, runs from the Beckwourth-Calpine A-23 bridge four miles east of Portola down to the Mohawk Bridge west of Graeagle. The remainder of the river opens to angling on the last Saturday of April, and the entire river closes to angling on November 15.
During light winters similar to those we’ve had the past three years, the fishing during the early opener can be quite good, because water levels are stable and water temperatures are climbing at that time. When air temperatures cooperate, early-season aquatic insects will hatch in fairly large numbers. Water levels and water temperatures predict just how good the fishing will be on the weekend of the early opener and throughout the year.
A River of Many Species
The variety of fish species that the Middle Fork Feather supports is quite unusual for a river nestled in the northern Sierra: brown trout, largemouth bass, smallmouth bass, and carp inhabit in the upper section of the river, while native rainbows reside in the entire river downstream. The Middle Fork of the Feather is stocked with hatchery-raised rainbow trout in areas popular with tourists, such as Graeagle. Only a small percentage of stocked rainbows make it through the first year. The majority of the rainbows in the river are wild, and catch-and-release angling is strongly encouraged.
The average rainbow on the Middle Fork of the Feather ranges between 8 to 12 inches in size, with a few larger fish up to 20-plus inches. The native rainbows of the Middle Fork of the Feather are not only gorgeous fish, they are a hardy breed that seemingly can withstand higher water temperatures than the average trout of other watersheds.
The native rainbows start to take flies when the water temperature reaches 50 to 55 degrees. The most aggressive feeding takes place in the range of 57 to 63 degrees. These rainbows are quite lively when hooked, offering exciting aerial displays, and they fight extremely well for their size. When water temperatures rise above 63 degrees, focus on the bubbly, oxygen-rich riffles and pockets. Higher temperatures leads to less dissolved oxygen in the water, so trout will seek out the well-aerated sections of the river.
Brown trout, the silent hunter, are a bit more abundant in the Middle Fork of the Feather than most anglers realize. The population of brown trout originates in spillovers from planted higher-elevation lakes, with the browns forced down the tributaries during high spring flows.
Their size ranges on average from 12 to 16 inches. They have a rich buttery color, with small spots and a blue cast on their cheeks. The bigger fish, 20 inches and more, can be found in the tailouts of pools and often can be tempted with large flies. They also can lurk where incoming tributaries provide a consistent flow of food. Targeting the larger fish requires long hours on the water. Browns on average can withstand higher water temperatures, and that is why you can find them in the upper watershed. The fight is what you would expect from any brown trout — deep pulls and bullish runs that are made authority.
Both smallmouth and largemouth bass reside in the river around Portola, and very few fly anglers target these fish. The smallmouths of the Middle Fork of the Feather are fierce game fish with an olive tinge and dark brown vertical bars — the perfect camouflage. They prefer pools and runs, with rocky outcroppings providing structure. Largemouths share the same olive tinge, only a shade darker, with a broad, darkish-brown lateral line. These bass prefer areas of cover and heavy weed growth. Both species respond well to damselfly and dragonfly patterns, mayfly nymphs, minnow patterns, crayfish imitations, and poppers on the surface. Low-light periods —mornings and evenings and cloudy days — offer the best f ishing. On summer evenings, surface presentations near the edges of the tule reeds can bring explosive strikes.
The most challenging fly fishing on the Middle Fork of the Feather is stalking and sight fishing to carp on the flats. Each flat in the river supports its own resident schools that fin through the idle waters and root the muddy bottoms. High noon, with the summer sun overhead, allows fly anglers to spot and track carp when making sight presentations. It’s a humbling game, because carp have a very sensitive lateral line and can detect the slightest of vibrations from human footsteps or a bad cast. Long leaders, stealth, and putting the right fly in front of them quietly are all absolute musts. Mayfly nymphs, damselfly patterns, and small brown Woolly Buggers have so far proven to be the most effective flies.
On average, the carp in the Middle Fork of the Feather range in size from 16 to 26 inches and three to seven pounds. They make long, screaming runs, followed by deep pulls, much like a brown trout. If you’re bored with easy fishing, pursuing carp will fulfill the need to test your skills.
Seasonal Approaches
Given the Middle Fork of the Feather’s headwaters are situated high in the Sierra, its water remains quite cold until most of the winter’s snowpack has melted. Once runoff has ended, the river usually stays in optimum shape for a few months, offering prime fishing conditions for the fly angler. As spring turns to summer, though, it heats up to bathtub temperatures, especially in the upper section, from Portola downstream to Clio. That’s good news for the carp and bass, but the native trout do what they must in order to survive: migrate downstream to colder or better-oxygenated water. Springs and feeder creeks such as Jamison, Gray Eagle, Smith, Frazier, and Nelson help keep this section of river habitable for trout. When fishing the eastern watershed during the heat of summer, though, it’s best to leave the rainbows alone and concentrate on the warmwater species.
Consequently, the spring and autumn seasons tend to be optimal periods for fly anglers targeting trout. The spring produces the best results in both numbers and size. In the late spring, the evening hatch is the major draw.
Although the river is low during autumn, this can be an especially nice time to fish. The water temperature begins to drop, with fish feeding more actively, and the cottonwoods and willows glow like bright candles against the somber background of conifers. Blue-Winged Olive hatches, including spinner falls, a few Isonychia mayflies, and the occasional October Caddis enhance the appeal of the angling. Stealth tactics and long leaders make for challenging presentations during these months. Late season angling slows to a crawl as water temperatures plummet and the autumn colors have waned. The Middle Fork of the Feather closes to angling on November 15, which also applies to most other streams in the Sierra District.
Techniques, Tactics, and Local Knowledge
The period from early spring to late spring can bring vastly different water conditions, fish behavior, and hatches. During the early spring, the native trout tend to hold in their winter haunts, which are usually slow tailouts and deep runs. Hatches of aquatic insects become increasingly common as the water starts to warm, but it will take a while for the fish, sluggish from the cold temperatures, to begin feeding at the surface. One of the frustrations is to see March Brown mayflies riding the current with no dimples from rising trout. For these cold-flow times, it’s best either to fish a weighted nymph rig that has the fly ticking along the bottom or to swing streamers on a sink-tip line that gets the presentation down in the water column. The drawback to using these tactics is that you will lose flies. Higher flows mask everything — submerged logs and rocks are tough to see even with polarized glasses. One wrong drift, and you’re snagged.
A nymph-rig tippet should consist of 18 inches of 3X to the first fly, preferably a Golden Stone or a worm pattern, followed by 18 inches of 4X to the trailer fly, something like a small Baetis nymph. As the season progresses and the resident fish get used to seeing flies, dropping down to 5X or 6X will help your catch rate. All styles of nymph rigs will take fish on the Middle Fork of the Feather. Personal preference will dictate which way you intend to make your presentation. Early morning nymphing is a smart approach, because fishing through a run or pool before anyone else increases your odds. Well-presented drifts in the major seams and foam lines are far more important than having the right pattern. Observe, calculate, and apply your own formula for success. Every day is different.
Flies that produce year-round while nymphing include the Flashback Bead Gold Ribbed Hare’s Ear. Carry both of these nymphs in sizes 10 to 18. Other useful flies include free-living caddis patterns in olive and bright green and Copper Johns, size 12 to 18, in black, olive, and copper. And never forget San Juan Worms in natural colors. Six golf courses in the area provide acres of rich soil and compost in which earthworms thrive, and these courses have numerous outflows into the Middle Fork of the Feather. During periods of rain or heavy irrigation, earthworms get swept into the river, where they become fish food. Aquatic worms are also present in the river, and trout are used to seeing them in the drift. Other nymphs to have in your box for the season include Fox’s Poopah in olive, tan, and gray, size 12 to 16, Iron Sallies, size 14 to 16, Golden Stone Nymphs, size 6 to 10, and Black Rubberlegs, size 6 to 8. Isonychia mayfly nymphs become an important pattern during the fall.
Swinging and stripping streamers on the Middle Fork of the Feather does not produce big numbers of fish, but it does produce the bigger trout in the river. Like fishing for steelhead, this approach involves lots of casting and covering the water. One grab, though, could be the fish of a lifetime. The spring is the best time for streamer tactics and also offers the best chance for hooking into both large rainbows and browns that can exceed two feet in length. Because water levels can vary widely, picking a streamer line can be challenging. During low-water conditions, 6-foot mini sink tips attached to a floating line are best. In normal years and head Pheasant Tail and the Beadhead high, roily water, a 24-foot express sinktip line delivers your f ly down quickly into the strike zone. When using sinking lines, your flies should be weighted with a medium amount of lead so they sink at the same rate as the line. Streamer leaders should be tapered, 7 feet long, and rated at 1X. This will assure that your fly will turn over and provides insurance if you hook into a trophy trout. In the fall, when the water is extremely low, fish streamers with a floating line, a heavily weighted fly, and a 3X leader.
An effective fly when using streamer tactics is the Beadhead Woolly Bugger in black with copper flash. When fishing streamers, keep in mind that important forage fish of the Middle Fork Feather include juvenile rainbow trout and sculpins with dark-olive markings. Presenting trout minnow patterns in olive and white with a bit of pearl flash and dark olive sculpin flies produces consistently. Another must-have streamer pattern is the
brown Zonker with a gold Mylar body. All of the above streamer flies are traditionally tied in sizes 2 to 6 on 3X-long heavy wire hooks. Newer, free-flowing, articulated styles of streamer flies are highly recommended, too.
The structure of the upper river is riffles and pools, with long, slow-moving tailouts that mellow into calm stretches that resemble frog water. In the early spring, swinging streamers in the slack water can bring success, because these areas of the river heat up from the sun and lead to temperatures that are a little more comfortable for trout. Methodically work the upper part of the tailout, down to where the current ends, taking a few steps downstream before making another cast. Many times, these fish will just follow your fly through the swing to the side water. Let it hang briefly, then strip in your fly. This may entice a hit.
The side sloughs of the Middle Fork of the Feather also hold trout. The main cold current of the spring runoff bypasses these areas, so the water can be considerably warmer. During spring, fish seek out these warmer areas, which also offer plentiful sources of food. Presenting streamers in the sloughs is more like fishing still waters, with sight-fishing to visible targets and reliance upon the right strip to produce hits.
During the autumn, the majority of the fish interested in taking streamers will be found near the main current, in deep pools and tailouts with a comfortable amount of holding water.
Dry-fly fishing on the Middle Fork of the Feather is at its best in the late spring and the fall. Hatches are peaking, and the trout are feeding more aggressively. The trout respond to the evening hatch by inhaling surface food items in large quantities, and some of the best dry-fly fishing can occur during the last few hours of daylight. Caddisflies, mayflies, and Yellow Sally stoneflies are on the menu. Effective dries to carry are Parachute Adamses, size 12 to 18, Pale Morning Dun Sparkle Duns, size 14 to 16, Cutter’s E/C Caddis in olive, gray, yellow, and tan, size 12 to 16, Stimulators in tan, yellow, and orange, size 6 to 16, and Loco Ants, size 12 to 16. The feeding frenzy in the evening can last until you can’t see your fly anymore, and you’ll find yourself standing there in dark, listening to the fish as they keep breaking the surface to feed. It can be maddening.
From late spring through autumn, you’ll need light tippets, 5X to 6X, and longer leaders than used in early spring. During thus period, a floating line is adequate. Your dry-fly selection for the autumn should include Blue-Winged Olive Loop-Wing parachutes, size 16 to 18, Blue-Winged Olive spent spinner patterns, size 16 to 18, foam grasshopper patterns in brown and tan (which are also good during summer), size 10 to 12, Orange Stimulators, size 8 to 10, and Parachute Adamses in a grayish-olive color, size 10 to 12, to imitate the Isonychia mayfly. In the fall, it is important to fish during the warmest time of day, from midafternoon to late afternoon, when the aquatic insects are more active and water temperatures are at their warmest.
Hatches, Equipment, and Access
The Middle Fork of the Feather is a rich river with prolific aquatic life. During low-water years and years with light runoff, the aquatic insect populations can be enormous in number. High runoff and flooding, however, can scour the bottom substrate of the river and decimate the bugs. The major hatches of early spring include Skwala stoneflies, Gray Drakes, Brown Duns, Blue-Winged Olives, March Browns, and midges. As the spring continues, even more aquatic insects are out in force, with a few holdovers of the early spring season hatches. Pale Morning Duns, Green Drakes, carpenter ants, Golden Stoneflies, Salmon Flies, Little Green Stones, Yellow Sallies, crane flies, and at least a half dozen different species of caddisfly can be active. Terrestrials will also be in the mix, with a strong presence of grasshoppers, beetles, and caterpillars. In the slower, frog-water sections, you’ll find dragonfly and damselfly nymphs swimming about, which the trout do feed on when given the opportunity.
Summer is mostly limited to Yellow Sallies and caddisflies hatching in the last few hours of light, and as the season gets deeper into the dog days, these hatches will eventually wane.
The most consistent and reliable food source for trout during autumn is the Blue-Winged Olive. Massive spinner falls are a daily occurrence from September through October, and when air temperatures hover around 60 to 67 degrees, you can expect the egg-laying mayflies to be on the water’s surface. The hatches on the Middle Fork of the Feather can be so profuse and abundant, that often I just set the rod down and watch the show. Observation can teach a fly angler a lot, because you are focused on trout and insect behavior and their interaction with each other.
Equipment requirements are basic: for general trout fishing, a 3-weight to 5-weight medium-to-fast-action rod 8 to 9 feet long. I also like slower-action rods when nymphing, because these rods help protect lighter tippets, resulting in fewer break-offs. For trophy trout, carp, and smallmouth bass, a 6-weight to 7-weight rod is a must. Early in the season is the only time when sink-tip lines have to be used, so a floating line is really all you need. A reliable reel with a strong drag completes your setup. The Middle Fork of the Feather is a slick and slippery river, so grippy wading boots and a wading staff will help ensure your safety. Other must-have items include a thermometer for checking water temperatures, polarized glasses, and a supply of drinking water.
The challenge of learning a new piece of water can be just as exciting as the fishing. Access areas for the Recreational Zone of the Middle Fork of the Feather are straightforward, and many public roads border the river. Some access points require a little hiking, which can be an advantage when getting away from other anglers, but no hike is as challenging as those in the gorge downstream in the Wild Zone. There are nine bridges that offer public access in the upper watershed of the Recreational Zone. The Clio bridge is the imaginary boundary line for fish species — upstream for brown trout, carp, and bass, downstream for rainbows and the occasional brown. As the summer progresses, you’ll find carp and bass migrating downstream from the upper river to flats that seem void of any current. If you’re new to the area, do your homework, take notes, and make a plan. Google Earth, MapQuest, and U.S. Forest Service maps can make your research a little easier, as will Andrew Harris’s Plumas National Forest Trout Fishing Guide, if you can find a copy of this out-of-print book.
The Middle Fork of the Feather River provides abundant beauty, wildlife, and some great fly fishing. Exploring its banks will often reward the fly angler with surprises, solitude, and natural wonder. I have had plenty of quiet days to myself with not another angler in sight and only the company of a joyful dipper, singing praise to the glorious surroundings. The northern Sierra is an awesome place. The seasons change, and the colors of the land peak and fade way. Though pursuing wild trout with a fly rod in hand is our passion, what we really yearn for is nature. We could all learn a little something from it, and the river will provide us with the all answers we truly need.
