Since moving to the eastern Sierra, my wife and I have often talked about living for six months in each of the communities along Highway 395, from Walker in the north to Lone Pine in the south. Each of these towns has its own character and special events, each is located in a different habitat zone, and each is surrounded by fishing opportunities that invite exploration. Each area offers fishing in the Sierra that can be accessed by vehicles, day trips into more out-of-the-way places, and trailhead access to longer backcountry adventures. I thought it might be good to take a look at these places individually and some of the reasons why a visitor might want to spend time there. Rather than prepare a laundry list of nearby waters, I am going to highlight a few of my favorites. Because of my prejudice for stream fishing, I will probably not do more than mention stillwater options, except for those little high-country lakes tucked away amid the peaks.
We’ll use take my home near Bishop as a base. Bishop is the largest community in the Highway 395 corridor, boasting seven of the eight traffic lights in Inyo County. Whenever someone learns where I live, they comment on what a pretty place it is, and they are correct. Set between Mount Tom and the Sierra Crest to the west and the equally imposing White Mountains to the east, Bishop is home to dramatic landscapes, often augmented by billowing cloudbanks and impressive sunrises and sunsets.
Bishop makes a great base for trips because there are numerous campgrounds in the area, particularly in the canyons of Bishop Creek. For those who want something a bit more comfy, there are three lodges along the South and Middle Forks of Bishop Creek, and motel accommodations are available in the town of Bishop. Lodging and dining choices do not range into the luxe categories found in Mammoth Lakes to the north, but they are varied and geared to the needs of visitors. The area draws a lot of anglers, and the Von’s store fills with what my wife refers to as “groups of unescorted men” searching the aisles for food and beverages.
In addition to its outdoor resources, the town is famous for its annual Mule Days celebration, which kicks off the summer on the Memorial Day weekend. The town swells to close to four times its normal size for six days of mule exhibitions, a celebration of the area’s packing heritage, and the world’s largest nonmechanized parade. Throughout the year, the town hosts special events and celebrations, including this year’s Fly Fishing Faire of the International Federation of Fly Fishers, to be held in October. Information about these events, local museums, and other attractions and lodging can be obtained from the Bishop Chamber of Commerce.
Driving Destinations
There are several angling destinations to which you can simply drive out of Bishop. Bishop angling is defined by the Bishop Creek drainages to the west and the Owens River, which runs from the north past, but not through the town. Bishop Creek has three forks, and each flows out of a lake located above 9,000 feet. South Lake heads the South Fork, the Middle Fork flows from Lake Sabrina, and the North Fork, of course, exits North Lake. Bishop Creek’s angling opportunities can be reached by taking Highway 168 west from the town, following West Line Street. The route to these streams splits about 12 miles from town at the turnoff to South Lake, which follows the upper South Fork. The creek, along with several holding impoundments, can be fished all the way along Highway 168 up to the impoundment known as Intake II, part of the Bishop Creek Hydroelectric System. The creek is stocked, and both Intake II and Intake I give up large fish each year to float tubers. There are several access roads down to the stream from the highway along the 12 miles from town to Intake II.
Rather than fishing the main creek, I spend a lot of my time on the South Fork. I fish all the way from the turnoff from the highway to the Bishop Pass trailhead. I am partial to this water due to its size, the presence of a variety of water types, the fact that it has some relatively isolated spots, and because it feels to me like a high-alpine stream.
The creek above the fork in the road averages about 15 feet in width, which is perfect for me. It is a little larger than the creeks I fell in love with in the backcountry, but still offers an intimate fishing experience and a chance to lose yourself in the willows and the water. If you fish the east side of the Sierra, you are familiar with the idea of fast and steep streams, and that is the description of the South Fork. However, I have been able to locate several spots where the pocket-water fishing is augmented by more gentle stretches. I fish a lot more deliberately than I did in the past, so two or three of these places will fill up a day, or I sneak away to a single spot to steal a couple of hours of casting in an otherwise busy day. It is easy to see where people pull off to the side of the road to fish the creek. Sometimes they simply fish right at that spot and nowhere else, so you can find some peace and quiet by taking 15 minutes or so to walk into the more challenging areas, made so by their willows or steep slopes. Also, areas that are quite crowded during the summer offer solitude during the shoulder seasons.
Dry-fly fisher that I am, I bring a 4-weight rod with a floating line and a 6X terminal setup. When I first began to fish this creek, I was pretty cavalier about my fly selection, figuring that these are not the sophisticated fish of Hot Creek or the Owens River. Over the last couple of years and in response to some difficult water conditions, I have changed my mind about this and now carry the same selection of multiple midge, mayfly, caddis, and other imitations in sizes 18 and smaller that I fish elsewhere. Terrestrials work well beginning in mid-June through the first few freezing nights. These fish are very spooky, and I have seen a lot more flee in terror than I have been able to bring to hand. I don’t ever seem to be stealthy enough to avoid spooking fish, and inevitably, they all look pretty big to me. The stream is small, and the emphasis is on making short, manageable casts and keeping the fly out of the willows. There are numerous small pockets and holding areas, so you are looking to make, shortwell controlled drifts.
Day Tripping
There are also dozens of opportunities to get away from the roadways and crowds and head off into the backcountry for a day hike and some fishing. Some of my favorites are reached by taking the same road to South Lake that leads to the South Fork of Bishop Creek. Driving all the way to the lake will bring you to the South Lake trailhead and the start of the Bishop Pass Trail. (Note: the trailhead parking area is scheduled for maintenance and will be closed in the late summer and September. Check with the Forest Service for alternative parking locations.) The trail climbs along the east side of South Lake beneath the Inconsolable Range, one of my favorite names of a Sierra mountain range. After a mile or so, it rises over a ridge and drops down to a split. The right fork of the trail leads behind South Lake and then climbs to the Treasure Lakes. This is where I go when I am looking for a golden trout fix. The Treasure Lakes lie in a broad granite basin at 10,600 feet. They are two and a half miles from the trailhead with an overall elevation gain on the trail of 900 feet. The floor of the basin is made up of granite slabs, broken up by glacial erratics and small clutches of trees. The vertical vista is made up of gleaming stone cliffs and talus. By and large, the shorelines are open, allowing for casting. Four lakes are in the basin. The first two contain hybrid rainbows and golden trout, while the upper lakes are being managed as fishless to provide habitat for endangered yellow-legged frogs. The fish are not large, running in the 7-to10-inch range, but they are lovely. I have had success with Parachute Adamses, Elk Hair Caddises, and Cutter’s Perfect Ants as dry patterns and subsurface Copper Johns, Hare’s Ear Nymphs, and Pheasant Tail Nymphs.
If you bear left at the first fork, the trail continues up toward Bishop Pass. After half a mile or so, a lateral veers off to the left, leading to the Louise Marie Lakes, which are worth an effort for brook trout. A fairly steep climb of about half a mile leads to the basin that contains Long Lake. Long Lake is a large lake for the backcountry and holds brook and rainbow trout. There are fish to be had in the shallow arms of the lake on dries throughout the day. Dry flies become more effective all over the lake, as well, into the evening. Also try nymphs or streamers during the day at the many deep drop-offs along the shoreline.
Just before reaching Long Lake, a trail lateral leads to the east, up a ridge to Bull Lake. This is a small lake that has a mostly open shoreline allowing for easy casting, although there are some clumps of willows. Bull Lake contains a population of brook trout up to a foot in length. I have had a good experience using the same dry flies as at the Treasure Lakes at the inlet and outlet.
Following the inlet stream uphill for less than half a mile leads to Lower Chocolate Lake, the first of three lakes contained in a hanging high, rocky basin. Like Bull Lake, the lakes hold brook trout that respond to the same techniques. All three of these lakes can be fished in a single day. The total round-trip distance is approximately six miles, with an elevation gain of 1,400 feet or so.
Another favorite day-trip destination is Grass Lake, which is located above North Lake along the trail to the Lamarck Lakes and the Lamarck Col. The trail is accessed from the parking area at North Lake, which is half a mile or so from the actual trailhead. If you are in a group or feel secure about leaving your gear, drop it off at the campground and then take your vehicle to the parking area, walking back without carrying any load. The trail crosses the North Fork of Bishop Creek at the rear of the campground and begins a half-mile, 600-foot ascent. The climb is largely through forest, with some exposed areas that can be pretty hot in the afternoon. Bring plenty of water and be sure to hydrate.
The trail levels off, and the signed lateral to the left of the main trail leads downslope to the aptly named Grass Lake. The lake is not easy to fish, due to a combination of trees and swampy, reedy shoreline. It is home to a population of brook trout that, though not world-beaters in terms of size, are beautiful fish. They are drawn to the usual dry flies. What the lake lacks in bragging-rights fishing, it makes up for with its setting, with views of the granite cliffs and peaks of the Lamarck Col and the peaks dividing you from Evolution Valley. My wife and I spent a fine morning at this lake, beginning in bright sunlight and then watching as a storm built up on the crest until we figured it was time to get off the mountain. I like this little walk, which is not much more than a mile and a half from the parking area. It can easily be done in a day or less, with a lot of time to fish, take in the views, and feel happy to be alive in this place.
Bear in mind that all of the lakes in these high-Sierra basins and bowls have inlet and outlet streams that are never written up as the focus of their own articles, but they are worth exploring. There are days when I head off on the trail to “Lake Whatever” without visiting the lake at all, just concentrating on the little connecting streams. These are not at all easy to fish, because they often are choked by willows or down at the bottom of a steep slope, and the fish that are found in them are usually small. However, you are often alone in your exploration, and sometimes the challenge of getting in there to see what is up is enough. There are birds, wildflowers, and some unusual views of the mountain peaks to be found in these places. Dapping a fly and downstream drifts on a short line are the way to fish there.
A Wilderness Adventure
For those with some time, energy, and a desire to escape deep into the Sierra wilderness, Bishop is the starting point for one of the range’s iconic loop trips. The journey from North Lake to South Lake (or the other way around) covers a distance of 61 miles, crosses three Sierra passes, and visits the headwaters of the Kings River, Dusy Basin, Humphreys Basin, and Evolution Valley. Each of these destinations is individually worth the trip, and they combine for an unforgettable wilderness experience. I would allow for at least eight walking days (seven nights) for this trip so that you have enough time to appreciate the surroundings and absorb the uphill sections. More days make for a more leisurely pace, but a heavier initial load. However, if I could figure out the logistics, I would happily spend a month back there. The trip is memorable for its scenic values, and there are fishing opportunities almost every inch along the way. This is just a thumbnail sketch of this fabled Sierra trip, which deserves a much more thorough review. Both the starting and ending point are reached by traveling west from Bishop on Line Street (Highway 168). Hikers can either leave a car at both lakes or use one of the eastern Sierra shuttle services to get back to their starting point.
Starting from the north, begin the trip at the trailhead parking area of North Lake (9,360 feet). The parking area is located half a mile or so from the actual beginning of the trail, so it is advisable to drop off your heavy pack at the trailhead, park, and then walk back to pick up your pack. The route from North Lake follows the Paiute Pass Trial, so do not take the Grass Lake–Lamarck Lakes turnoff described earlier. Once on the trail, the hiker will begin a relatively gentle uphill walk through a variety of habitats, including aspen groves and meadow areas, while following the North Fork of Bishop Creek. The trail levels off at Loch Leven, an inviting day-hike destination, and then leads up onto the next bench and Paiute Lake. This is a popular overnight destination or a first-night stopover for the longer trip. Leaving Paiute Lake, you follow a steady uphill pull through rock slopes to the tree line, where a series of switchbacks leads to the summit of Paiute Pass (11,423 feet). The views from the pass are startling, encompassing the surrounding peaks, the panorama of the Glacier Divide in the distance, and the open vista of the Humphreys Basin. The trail drops into the Humphreys Basin, descends through granite slopes, and enters the more vegetated drainage of Paiute Creek just past the lateral trail to the Desolation Lakes. Descend into the broad Hutchinson Meadow, a popular camp area for hikers and stock at the confluence of Paiute and French Canyon Creeks. The angling opportunities in both creeks are worth pursuing.
From the meadow, the trail follows Paiute Creek downstream to the Pacific Crest–John Muir Trail and the South Fork of the San Joaquin River (8,050 feet), another spot that invites you to stop and try a few casts — or a lot. Turning upstream, you follow the river and the John Muir Trail to a steep ascent into Evolution Valley (9,860 feet). This is a popular stopping place for hikers on this trip as well as for through hikers on the John Muir Trail. A layover could be spent enjoying both the scenery and the dry-fly-loving trout that inhabit Evolution Creek. The trail winds through this amazing high-Sierra meadow before starting its climb up into the Evolution Basin, past Evolution and Wanda Lakes and the broad saddle of Muir Pass (11,995 feet).
After attaining the summit of the pass, with its amazing rock hut, the trail drops through rocky slabs to Helen Lake and the Black Divide. Continuing over the divide, the hiker is rewarded with a fine view of the Palisades Group to the south, as well as hints of Le Conte Canyon below. A long descent into aspens and forest leads into the canyon and on beyond to Big Pete Meadow. You are following the Middle Fork of the Kings River as it grows in size and reaches Little Pete Meadow. It would be pointless to try to resist the temptation of this headwater stream. This is one of my favorites in the backcountry, and it is worth planning a layover to explore its many inviting holds. Pass the LeConte ranger station and then arrive at the junction of the John Muir and Bishop Pass Trails, where you will take the latter and wind up through the stark, rocky Dusy Basin. Sunrises or sunsets in this huge bowl are not to be forgotten. The walk up through the basin brings wonderful views on Mount Agassiz, Thunderbolt Peak, and the Palisades, and, at the summit, the Inconsolable Range. From the summit of Bishop Pass (11,972 feet), the trail descends into yet another dramatic granite basin for five miles or so to the South Lake parking area. I often think about the fact that there are endurance runners who travel this route in a single day, and I feel a surge of envy. However, they must miss so much.
If you make this trip, or even just part of it, bring along a light rod that is maneuverable in close quarters and a box of dry flies, including attractors such as Royal Wulffs and Humpies, some Parachute Adamses and Parachute BlueWinged Olives, ants and grasshopper patterns, caddis patterns such Cutter’s E/C Caddis and the Elk Hair Caddis, and a few Stimulators. Maybe a few small nymphs can supplement these on the high lakes. The fish here are not exactly easy to catch. They are really easy to spook, especially those few who manage to survive long enough to attain some decent size, which is anything over eight inches in most backcountry streams. Concentrate on being stealthy and patient on a clear stream in which you can see 20 or more trout out in front of you. Take the time to appreciate the fish, which did not just come from a hatchery, and to appreciate the place in which you are fortunate enough to be casting.
Four-Season Trout
Finally, let us not forget the lower Owens River, which flows south from Crowley Lake, passing Bishop to the east of town. It is a justly famous fishery whose fame brings a lot of fishing pressure. This is my winter fishing resource. In the summer, it is hot in the valley, and I am called upslope to the high mountains, so I look at the lower Owens season as beginning the second Wednesday of November and ending a week or so before the last Saturday in April. The river is subject to big fluctuations in flow rates, because these are ramped up and down in order to meet the water-management agendas of the Los Angeles Department of Water and Power. Throughout the year, it can have flows ranging from 80 cubic feet per second all the way to above 400. In the winter the range is closer to 250 cfs than to 80. Check on these flows before heading out. The river is heavily vegetated, and access is difficult and frustrating. Because of this, many people fish the river using drift boats, and several guides are available for that purpose. Otherwise, access is obtained by following use trails, then plowing your way through the willows, Also, the river is generally deeply cut, often running up to four feet or so below the level of the bank.
The lower Owens holds trout from where it leaves Pleasant Valley Reservoir downstream to the area of the Steward Lane bridge, south of Big Pine. Access to the river from Highway 395 can be had at one of several east-west-running laterals that cross the river, from Chalk Bluffs Road below the Pleasant Valley Dam, and from lateral dirt tracks that leave paved roads and run out onto Department of Water and Power land. The river is no longer a winter secret and is subject to heavy pressure in the area below the dam, particularly the designated Wild Trout section. For this reason, I rarely fish in this area and prefer to search out areas that require a hike from the road.
The river fishes fairly well throughout the winter. The period from November through mid-February features shortened days, colder temperatures, and (we hope) snowy conditions in the surrounding peaks. This is the time to get out the nymphing gear and fish deep and slow. Frankly, this time of the year finds me working in the yard, catching up on home chores, and reading by the fire. Come March, the water starts to warm, and dry-fly fishing, although available in midwinter, becomes more productive. Midge patterns, nymphs, and eventually dries are steady producers on the lower Owens. Mid-March brings mayfly emergences, and caddisflies begin to show up around mid-April. The increase in insect activity in turn brings an increase in the number of people fishing, so do not come up to the Wild Trout area and expect to be by yourself. However, there are spring days filled with forgotten warmth, the songs of newly arriving birds, and the sight of the snow-topped peaks that together make for an unforgettable experience. There is something about a clear blue sky, mountain snow, and emerging green vegetation that is simply magical.
No matter what the time of year, there is always an excuse for hanging around in Bishop. You could spend several days using Bishop as your base and not have to fish the same place twice. Pick up some baked goods from Schat’s (or the locals’ favorite, the Great Basin Bakery), or try a craft beer and a pub meal at the Mountain Rambler Brewery. And there cannot be a better view from a K-Mart parking lot anywhere. Whether it’s a hardcore fish-until-you-drop trip or something for the whole family, the area has options for everyone.
