I’ve been to the Mendocino coast a number of times chasing steelhead on the Navarro, Garcia, and Gualala Rivers, as well as salmon and inshore rockfish, including lingcod, greenling, and canaries in the ocean . . . at times with a fly. My wife and I think that we’ve been there together 10 times over the past 40 years. It never gets old and always turns into a foraging excursion of some type.
A January visit caught the rugged coast in brilliant winter light after heavy December rains turned the diverse vegetation into a kaleidoscope of lush colors and textures, including early wildflowers. Our drive west from Grass Valley took us out of the Sierra foothills, across the Central Valley, past the unique Sierra Buttes, and into the Coastal Range. The road wound past Clear Lake, the Blue Lakes, a low Lake Mendocino, and back into another section of the coastal mountains. From Ukiah, we climbed briefly through wine country and over some treacherous hills to drop into Boonville and then west into the stunning Anderson Valley, with its vineyards, apple orchards, and sheep, passing through 13 miles of redwood groves and along the Navarro River before finally breaking out on the coast at Albion. It is a drive that you never tire of and represents what a biodiverse California is all about.
We had a number of foraging goals that were written down lest we get distracted and forget one or two along the way. We always go for the food and wine, regardless of any other diversion. This time, though, we also were looking for wood with which to make a unique table, and I wanted to pirate design ideas for the table in the boutiques and art galleries of Mendocino, as well as in the tiny village of Elk and in Fort Bragg, a mill town on the coast that is trying to survive. I also wanted to look closely at the Navarro estuary to see if I could get close enough to launch a pram, pontoon boat, or larger boat, since my legs no longer carry me well through the dense riparian habitat of the short Navarro River.
Part of one day was devoted to a research visit to MacKerricher State Park, a few miles above Fort Bragg. A chapter of the book I’m writing is centered on a visit for surfperch after being driven off North Coast rivers by one of our drenching Pineapple Express storms that we so desperately need today. Another mission involved visits to several vineyards to see if my Sierra Wine and Grape Grower’s membership card might get me an invitation to fish some bass ponds in the Anderson Valley. A final goal was to inspect potential rentals for a prolonged visit next winter, which in our minds is the best time to visit the coast. Why? Steelhead, great food and wine, spectacular views, foraging surprises, lower room rates, and fewer tourists, combined with the best weather of the year.
Our wood hunt started at Navarro Beach State Park, where the estuary meets the Pacific. Season-high winter tides, when the sun and moon line up, saw water moving into the estuary with that emerald green color that we steelheaders chase. It would have been easy to drag a float tube or pontoon boat to that end of the estuary. The upstream end, where there is some current, would have been more difficult, but doable for a younger angler. We wandered toward a gap in the beach berm where tide and outflow were fighting. You could taste the metallic sea smell that mingled with odors of kelp and musty driftwood. Gulls milling around a spot in the estuary suggested something going on. Fish? The gulls squawked for awhile and flew off.
In a pile of driftwood at the end of the spit, I found a gnarled, twisted log with an intact burl. It had wood-carving art written all over it. We tried to lift it, to no avail. We drove to the nearby Elk Store — a grocery and deli, not a vendor of large mammals — and asked if they had rope for sale. The young owner said, “No, but I will give you some.” Before leaving, we sampled delicious clam chowder at the deli prepared from a family recipe that came from southern Massachusetts. It was rich and flavorful, but not so overly creamy that you couldn’t taste the clams. We pegged it a winner and returned to the beach. An hour later, we made a sling and dragged the log to our vehicle, loading it just as a park ranger drove by, smiled and waved. The log might have been a bit over the 50-pound beachcombing limit.
There is an interesting artists’ cooperative gallery in Elk. A talkative staffer and artist from the cooperative told us of a wood-salvage merchant near Mendocino. That afternoon, we spent an hour there going through slabs, stumps, and timbers, looking for a piece that could be a tabletop. Success came with a small inch-and-a-half pecan wood slab. It was from a tree planted on the historic Ruddick Ranch near Ukiah in the 1870s. The pioneer owner’s wife was from Texas and had planted a pecan sapling. She longed for a tree that reminded her of home. A storm toppled the tree, and the Mendocino wood yard owner slabbed and dried it a decade ago.
We headed for Mendocino to check out another wood merchant who specialized in driftwood. I was looking for table legs and who knows what. A sign said “Closed.” We drove a mile to nearby Noyo harbor on the south end of Fort Bragg for a late lunch. Outwardly, Cap’n Flint’s on the wharf looked discouraging. A glaring message out front said, “No Credit Cards — Cash and Checks Only.” Our innkeeper and another person in town had recommended the restaurant for fish and chips, though. We almost turned around when we saw that the only wine offering was a “Burgundy” and a “Chablis.” We could see the half-filled jugs under a Formica counter — not what you would hope for so near to the Anderson Valley. The happy ending was that the fish was same-day Pacific rockfish, perfectly deep-fried in a dusting of seasoned flour, one of the best that we had ever experienced. The fish was moist and steaming, and the rich flavors were not overpowered by a heavy, greasy batter. I used to fish the coast and know how good rockfish can be when it is fresh. (See “Fried Fish and Abalone Fritters: Fishing and Eating along the Sonoma Coast,” in “The Foraging Angler,” California Fly Fisher, January/February 2013). A tasty slaw and a small draft Scrimshaw beer complimented the fish and chips perfectly. Karen tried the chowder. It was decent, but not like the chowder we had in Elk. This is a very simple place with a harbor view, but the fish and chips were excellent, and the price was attractive.
On the way back toward the wood lot, I saw a roadside cardboard sign that said “Fresh Wild Mushrooms.” I made a U-turn and pulled into Hidden Pines Campground. Bins of fresh and dried wild trumpet and chanterelle mushrooms were inside a combination store, office, art gallery, and propane dock. The grinning owner, who went by the name of Mike, appeared. I received a 20-minute lesson on wild mushroom care and a recipe for the mushrooms that I could pair with the bison steaks that I would buy on the way home. One pound cost $10 — in San Francisco, $30 or more.
In the course of our visit, we ate bar food one evening at the Victorian Mendocino Hotel. A crab cake plate and another fish and chips dish were only average, but the restaurant offered a Navarro Reserve Chardonnay and several other good wine-by-the-glass selections. You can’t take your eyes off the Tiffany-style leaded glass dome that is above an ornately carved oak bar, or off the rest of the period décor.
After an exhilarating shoreline hike at MacKerricher State Park, where migrating gray whales were spouting just offshore, we worked our way back toward the village of Mendocino with stops in Fort Bragg, expecting to dine at Wild Fish. We had worked up an appetite. An angling friend had been up the week before and had recommended Wild Fish highly. It fronts the sea just south of Van Dam State Park and Beach. The restaurant was closed, but Little River Inn across the street produced for us, as it has for years. A room full of gray-haired retirees in Ole’s Whale Watch Bar for happy hour, and less-expensive bar food, suggested we would experience a fine meal. I chose a spicy cioppino that had clams, mussels, shrimp, scallops, rockfish, and a quarter of a large, fresh Noyo Harbor Dungeness crab. The fresh crab was part of a Crab, Wine, and Beer Festival special menu. There is a fall Mushroom, Wine, and Beer Celebration, as well. Karen ordered seared scallops that were plated with a saffron risotto and tasty fried leek shreds. A roasted beet salad with fresh greens and goat cheese complemented both dishes. We felt very good about the meal and ordered another bottle of the Navarro Reserve Chardonnay that had been a highlight at the Mendocino Hotel. Agate Cove Inn and its delightful owner produced wonderful breakfasts. One morning it was sausage, quiche, fruit, and blueberry scones. The second morning it was fresh waffles with strawberries and scrumptious ham, as well as two types of melon and hearty coffee. Agate Cove and the Mendocino Headlands beckoned through large plate glass windows. Out in the garden, a house seagull waited for leftovers. Winter is a good time to visit. Summer fogs are gone most days, and the views are spectacular. Our third and last morning featured made-to-order omelets with poached pears and an oatmeal crisp. We were so full that all we needed for lunch was a snack.
Our last dinner was at the venerable MacCallum House, another historic Ranch Gothic–style building that has weathered many a Pacific storm. I had hoped for lamb, and the beef fillet with roasted vegetables and mashed potatoes that I substituted proved to be ordinary, but my wife’s duck with wild mushrooms and a duck confit hash on frisee was one of the best meals that we have shared in some time. I’m going to forget a less-than-stellar meal and try to get the hash recipe from the chef.
We headed back the way we came. Our first stop was Husch Vineyards in the western end of Anderson Valley. We purchased a few bottles of their sauvignon blanc and reserve pinot noir. Nearby Lazy Creek Vineyards, with its new corporate owners, Ferrari-Carrano, had recently built a new facility and tasting room. It was a bit sad to see that the simple home and weathered barn tasting room of the original owners, Hans and Theresa Kobler, one of the first vintners in the Anderson Valley, had been torn down for the new venue. Hans’s son worked the vineyards with his father and showed us years ago how freshly caught Mendocino coast salmon paired with their scintillating pinot noir.
We saw a sign in Philo that said “Architectural Elements.” A showroom adjacent to a sawmill held fabulous tables, wine racks, and other furniture made from reclaimed wood. They cater to designers, architects, and homeowners up and down the coast who want something other than mall furniture — something that would blend with the environment. A “leftover” bargain bin had some tight-grain old clear-heart redwood planks that just fit into our vehicle. We also tucked in two boards made from laminated oak wine barrel staves.
Another stop was in Hendy Redwoods State Park for a short hike on a loop trail that overlooked upper reaches of the Navarro River. We exited the park, passed an organic apple farm, and soon were in Boonville, which is showing indications of economic recovery. There’s a new gallery, and there are now several restaurants. The on-again-off-again Boonville Hotel showed signs of life. A must stop is Mosswood Market Café and Bakery for homemade empanadas, whether for immediate consumption or a later snack on the road.
We turned off Highway 20, between Ukiah and Clear Lake, to buy hard-to-get bison tenderloin steaks from the J-Bar S Bison Store (they ship), and stopped again at Colusa National Wildlife Refuge to check out the awesome gathering of birds and wildlife at sunset. A bassy-looking stream that supplies the refuge disappointed with a “No Fishing” sign.
It’s hard to beat a trip to the Mendocino coast. The drive from any direction is fascinating. Fishing opportunities and other forms of recreation, such as hiking, birding, mushrooming, and kayaking are abundant, the scenery and rural architecture are world class, and there are plenty of diversions for everybody. Fresh sea air will work up a hearty thirst, and you won’t go home hungry.
Burgers in Truckee: The Truckee Tavern and Grill
By Richard Anderson
If you’ve been a visitor to Truckee over the last decade-plus and have gone out for a fine-dining experience, you likely visited or at least considered visiting Dragonfly, an Asian-fusion restaurant situated at the approximate middle of the town’s historic Commercial Row. It was a favorite of many people, including me, but its chef/owner decided about a year ago to take a rest and consider new challenges. The space is now occupied by the Truckee Tavern and Grill, a woodfire, red-meat sort of place run by a couple of young guys, Chris and Ryan, who cut their teeth at another favorite in Truckee, the Cottonwood.
The Cottonwood, attentive readers know, is home to one of the better hamburgers in our community, and The Artist and I were wondering whether the offering at the Truckee Tavern would meet that standard. We visited during a weekday evening late in February. The place had the pleasant buzz of happy conversations, and although there was a table available in the dining room, we sat along the dogleg of the bar, our favorite place for people watching. Quickly enough, the bartender, owner Ryan, came over with menus for drinks and for dining.
Prices, we noticed, were typical of the better establishments in Truckee — in other words, pricey, but a bit less than one might be charged at a steakhouse such as Ruth’s Chris. The half-pound cheese burger with fries was listed at $15, common for similar-quality burgers in town. This was the objective of our mission, so of course we ordered it, medium rare.
We were not disappointed. The patty, of Durham Ranch beef, actually looked larger than half a pound. It perfectly matched the size of its toasted bun and came accompanied with a slice of white onion (not red), two slices of tomato, a leaf of butter lettuce, melted cheddar cheese, and a pickle spear. Condiments were provided separately. The meat, more on the rare side this visit, had the subtle flavor of wood smoke, and the pickle, likewise subtle in its flavor, was definitely superior to the supermarket variety. “Our chef makes his own pickles,” Ryan mentioned when I asked. “He’s pickle happy.” So were we. And very happy, as well, with the rest of the meal. I ordered a second martini, The Artist another glass of wine, and we just sat there, grinning.
The Truckee Tavern and Grill is open for dinner only. Reservations can be made at (530) 587-3766; the Web site is www.truckeetavern.com. In Truckee at 10118 Donner Pass Road.
If You Go…
The Elk Store, Highway 1, Elk, CA, (707) 877-3544, elkstoreca@gmail.com.
Cap’n Flint’s, 32250 North Harbor Drive, Fort Bragg, CA, (707) 964-9447.
The Mendocino Hotel, 45080 Main Street, Mendocino, CA, (707) 937-0511, http://www.mendocinohotel.com.
The Little River Inn, Little River, CA, (707) 937-5942, http://www.littleriverinn.com.
The Agate Cove Inn, Mendocino Bed and Breakfast, 11201 Lansing Street, Mendocino, CA, (800) 527-3111 or (707) 937-0551, http://www.agatecove.com.
The MacCallum House, 45020 Albion Street, Mendocino, CA, (800) 609-0492 or (707) 937-5763, http://www.Maccallumhouse.com.
Husch Vineyards, 4400 Highway 128, Philo, CA, 707) 895-3216, http://www.huschvineyards.com.
Lazy Creek Vineyards, 4741 Highway 128, Philo, CA (888) 529-9275 or (707) 895-3623.
Mosswood Market Café and Bakery, 14111 Highway 128, Boonville, CA, (707) 895-3635.
The J-Bar S Bison Store, 6201 Highway 20, Ukiah, CA, (707) 485-0830, http://lawsonslake.com/ranch_web/index.html.
— Trent Robert Pridemore
