Although there are opportunities to fish with topwater flies for steelhead throughout the winter season, to hook these fish consistently when the thermometer drops, it helps if you make the switch to what some consider the dark side of fly fishing. Indicator nymphing may have its stigmas, but it is a surefire way to improve your catch rate and a great way to learn where fish hold and feed when they are not actively eating on the surface. Indicator nymphing is pretty easy, but there are some common mistakes that keep many fly fishers from unlocking the real potential of the technique. Knowing how to avoid these errors will accelerate your climb up the learning curve and help you catch more subsurface feeders, and equipping yourself to fish this effective method in the best way possible will lead to even more success. What follows are some recommendations for how to chase winter steelhead using the indicator method.
Drag and the Dead Drift
A dead drift is the key to success in most nymph-fishing situations, but anglers learning to nymph with an indicator often fail to achieve or maintain it where it really counts — at the fly. The indicator acts as a floating hinge point between your leader and fly line on the surface and the remainder of the leader with your fly or flies attached below the surface. The hinge enables your rig to sink at an angle close to ninety degrees, penetrating the current to reach fish holding deeper in the water column. When used properly, your indicator allows you to drift a fly or a team of flies beneath the surface at the same speed that the natural insects are swept along the bottom into the waiting mouths of hungry fish.
Drag interferes with this. Drag can be caused by several different variables.
If you do not allow significant slack in the presentation, either by mending or by feeding line into the drift, you will have too much tension on your line, and a line with no slack will be swept by the main current and cause your flies to swing up off of the bottom, speeding unnaturally away from the fish.
To prevent this from happening, pay attention to how the indicator moves in the current. If it is dragging, a V-shaped wake will form around it, and you’ll know to add some slack in the form of a mend. Observe the indicator as it floats by and notice which direction the drag V is coming from. If it is pointing upstream, the drag is coming from upstream, and performing a downstream mend will set things right. If the V points downstream, your line probably is dragging in heavy current and pulling the indicator along with it. This situation can occur if you are trying to fish over or across a heavy current to softer water on the other side. It can easily be corrected by mending some slack line upstream.
Speed and the Indicator Mend
Beginning anglers assume that if their indicator is floating at the same speed as the surface current, they are getting a perfect dead drift, but this is not always the case. The current in a river is faster on the surface than it is on the bottom. The rough, rocky texture of most river bottoms slows the current to almost a halt in some cases, when above, the river can be blitzing by at a rapid speed. In this situation, your indicator is floating at the same speed as the current, but your flies will be ripping by the fish in a flash. This is why it is important to cast well upstream of your intended target. It’s not just to give your flies some time to sink. As they are sinking, you can make what is called an indicator mend. This is basically an exaggerated mend that flicks not only your slack fly line upstream, but your indicator, as well. Depending on the speed of the current, you can move your indicator anywhere from a few inches to a couple of feet or more upstream from where your flies entered the water. This allows the flies time to get a head start on the indicator so it is not dragging them unnaturally.
Bobbers and Detecting the Strike
Anglers learning to use a strike indicator often don’t detect the strike. Strikes can be much more subtle than you might imagine, and if you are waiting for your indicator to jolt a foot under the surface, like when you used to fish for bluegills on grandpa’s farm pond, you are missing oodles of fish. A fish can inhale your fly, decide it is fake, and reject it, all in a split second, and even the most seasoned angler might not know it. This is why it is very important to focus on the behavior of the indicator and set the hook at the slightest bump, pause, or unnatural movement. Sometimes your line will rip away, and you will know for sure it is a fish, but other times, your indicator will simply twitch, twist, tip, tick, pause, move to one side, or drag oddly in the current. These are all signs of a subtle strike. You may come up with nothing, but hook sets are free, and the biggest fish are often the most subtle takers. Have the mindset that it’s always a fish.
For the indicator to register these subtle movements, you need to choose one that fits the size of the water, current speed, flies, and weight of the shot you are fishing so it will signal clearly what’s going on below. Many yarn indicators that you buy from a fly shop are overdressed right out of the package and need to be trimmed before they will be useful. There are many different kinds of indicators on the market. I love the New Zealand strike indicators, because you can make your own size to match the water and the size of flies and weight you are using, but the indicator that I use the most, along with almost every guide that I know in Northern California, is the Jaydacator. This indicator comes in many different sizes and is hand turned out of balsawood. It’s an inline indicator that rides true and shows the most subtle of strikes. Also, for its size, it suspends more weight than an equal size Thingamabobber. The indicator that you use should be able to support the precise amount of weigh you are fishing with and no more. That way, it is sure to detect the most minuscule bumps, tugs, or grabs. If a yarn indicator is overdressed or your “bobber” is too big, not only can it spook the fish, but you have a good chance of never detecting a strike.
Beyond the Bobber: Equipment for Steelhead Nymphing
How you fish when indicator nymphing for winter steelhead may be the key to success, but what you fish with matters, too. I enjoy nymphing with a 10-foot 7-weight rod. This length assists with mending and casting at a distance while wade fishing. It has enough backbone to put the wood to bigger fish, and it’s still light and nimble enough that you can fish all day. Plus, its softer tip helps protect the lighter tippets that are essential in the low, cold, and clear waters of winter. Because it’s shorter than a two-hander, it also allows a faster hook set, especially if you are working longer drifts.
For reels, most medium-sized, entry-level fly reels will work. If you already have a striper fly-fishing setup, that reel will work great. Just purchase a spare spool, and you are good to go. A machined aluminum reel is your best bet. Most of us wade when fishing for winter steelhead, and if you slip and fall, you may ding or scratch a machined reel, but it will not bend or break, as a cast reel will. Don’t skimp on the line you choose, either. I prefer a weight-forward floating line that has a long head/belly length, which aids in making mends at different distances. I have found that a trout/steelhead nymph line one line weight heavier than the rod rating is the perfect line for steelhead nymphing.
The length and strength of the leader you choose will differ with the fish you target, as well as with the fishing conditions. For Northern California inland steelhead fisheries, I use a 6-foot 12-pound-test mono tapered leader to start my nymphing setup. If you fish the coast for steelhead, you will definitely need to be using a higher pound-test leader, though.
Here’s how to set up a nymphing leader for winter steelhead. At the tip of the 12-pound-test mono tapered leader, tie a Perfection Loop. The first three to four feet here will serve as your indicator section. Create a small loop at the end of a 3-foot section of 2X fluorocarbon tippet material, loop it through the loop at the tip of the leader, then add a small barrel swivel at the other end of the 2X fluoro. This loop-to-loop connection allows you to change setups quickly. If you come across some steelhead feeding on the surface, you can swap it for a dry-fly setup that uses mono tippet material and your dry fly. Don’t snip the tag end off the 3-foot section of tippet material at the barrel swivel — you’ll use this later. Next, on the other end of the swivel, tie in 16 to 20 inches of 3X fluorocarbon tippet, then your first fly. On the bend of that hook, tie in another 16 to 20 inches of 3X fluoro and then your second fly. For a three-fly setup, use 16 inches, 16 inches, then 18 inches of tippet.
Use your heaviest or biggest fly as your first or point fly, then tie a smaller fly below that, and for a three-fly rig, your smallest fly on the bottom. If you need to add split shot, remember that tag you didn’t snip off, fold that tag over your leader and add your split shot to it. That way, you are not pressing it fully on the main leader line and weakening it. If you think the shot will get hung up lot, just crimp it firmly on the tag end. Now you are ready to go.
Flies for Steelhead Nymphing
I always recommend checking with a local fly shop for flies that are working on the river you are going to fish. Spend some bucks with them, and ask questions — they are always willing to help. However, there are a few go-to patterns that I always carry in my steelhead fly box and that you can always find at local shops. Buy or tie several in case you lose or break them off.
Glo Bugs (size 6) are a must-have when salmon are spawning. When the water is up and off-color, steelhead like to key in on brighter colors, including the Clown Egg. Pat’s Rubberlegs (sizes 4 and 6) is another must-have — big and buggy. If you have stoneflies in your river, steelhead gobble them up like candy. Plus, this fly just pisses them off. When the fish get picky, actual stonefly nymph imitations (sizes 4 to 12) may be the way to go: Golden, Black, Brown, and Egg-Sucking Stones.
Copper Johns (sizes 10 to 16) in blue, red, chartreuse, and green all work, as does the Montana Prince. It’s a psychedout blue-purple Copper John with rubberlegs — deadly. Prince Nymphs (sizes 12 to 16) are a good point fly and just buggy-looking underwater, as is the Psycho Prince. It’s very similar to the Prince Nymph, but it has a brighter body in blue, purple, green, pink, yellow and orange.
When the fish start keying in on traditional patterns, a Pheasant Tail Nymph is my go-to fly. I fish them as big as size 10s and all the way down to size 18s. The same for Hare’s Ear Nymphs.
By the way, when the flows increase, fish aquatic/earth-worm imitations, because they’ll be in the drift. Don’t forget purple — when worms get cold, they turn purple.
Tactical Considerations
As I noted earlier, fishing an indicator rig is all about achieving a long, dragfree drift through water where you think steelhead will be holding. The colder the water, the colder the fish and the slower they will be moving for food or your fly, so target the slower, deeper sections of the run you are in. Start at the bottom of a run and work upstream. After casting your rig upriver, well above where you think the fish are holding, add a very large upstream indicator mend to get your flies down and start the drift. Follow your indicator with the rod tip and hold it up at a 45-degree angle. Some fly fishers like to high-stick nymphs, keeping all the line off the water. This allows you to get a faster hook set when the indicator moves, because you are directly connected to the indicator.
If you aren’t hitting bottom often, adjust your setup to fish deeper. If you are scraping bottom repeatedly, shorten it up. You want your flies to be near the bottom, but not on the bottom. Steelhead and resident trout look out and up, not out and down, so you want to fish through or above them, not below them.
If you have been fishing an area for half to three-quarters of an hour or so and haven’t outsmarted a fish, it’s time to move toward the head of the run or to a different section of the river that may look fishier. Sometimes, though, just changing the color of your fly can make all the difference.
There’s more to setting the hook than just raising the rod when indicator nymphing for steelhead. Sweep the rod downriver at an upward 45-degree angle, not too hard (we are not bass fishing), but not too softly, either. Fish face upriver, so setting upriver would pull the fly right out of their mouths. And add a strip to your set. You have some slack line out, so a strip will help move the fly and set the hook that much faster.
Now the fun starts. Be ready for that fish to do anything that it wants to do. It is the master of its territory, and there is no way you are going to stop a fish that can put on bursts of speed of up to 15 miles per hour. Don’t be in a hurry to land your fish, either. Lots of fish are lost because anglers are rushing to get a photo. Most importantly, enjoy the fight.
While you may not land them all, each and every steelhead hooked is a treat and an honor. It’s a fish of a thousand casts, and the only time you observe or hook them are when they are in their home waters. There is little or no bycatch of steelhead in the ocean. That’s why they are called the ghost: the only time you see them is when you see them. Pretty cool!
More Tips for Success
Here are some additional tips and tricks that bring success when nymphing for winter steelhead. Some are no-brainers, but it’s worth making sure you’re aware of them.
I scout locations that I plan on fishing ahead of time to see where the fishy spots may be. If possible, I take a picture of the run. This comes in handy later. Scouting will save you time and energy on the day you plan to fish. Sometimes the spots look different when you are on the water, and once on the river, I always read the river first to determine where I want to start and where the fish may be holding. Google Maps also is a help when scouting new water.
Be sure to check your flies and tippet often. A dull hook or frayed leader can make or break the one and only opportunity at the fish of the day.
If you miss a possible grab, cast right back in the exact same spot. If you didn’t stick the fish or you didn’t prick it too hard, it will more than likely grab your fly a second time. Also, because steelhead don’t move much in cold weather, it may take a few passes before you get a grab.
If you aren’t getting any grabs, though, try something different. You may not be getting down deep enough. Steelhead are trout, and sometimes they are skittish about big, bright flies, so, try downsizing your fly, change to a different color, or try lighter tippet material, because they also can be leader shy.
If someone is leaving the spot you wanted to fish, don’t be afraid to fish it immediately. You don’t know what their setup was, how long they have been there, or if they were doing something incorrectly. I have stuck plenty of fish when fishing right behind other wade anglers and even drift boats, especially in the winter.
Go for It
Fishing during the winter months for steelhead is one of the most exciting and frustrating experiences you can have. Most fair-weather anglers are long gone, you get to see some of the biggest fish of the season, and you will be in a beautiful place where the scenery is breathtaking. Once you hook into your first winter steelhead of the season, all the preparation, equipment purchases, and time spent scouting spots and then fishing for hours or days is worth it.
Nymphing for steelhead is the way to make all that happen. It is a skill that takes some effort to master, so get out there and fish, and you will see results.
Staying Warm
You may think “Well, duh!” when I tell you to dress in warm clothes while steelhead fishing in the winter, but you would be surprised how cold you can get when fishing in a river with a water temperature in the high 30s to low 40s. So actually, how to stay warm is a big deal.
First off, do not wear anything made of cotton. Fabrics insulate you by trapping warm air close to your skin. Cotton absorbs moisture rather than wicking it away, and when wet hugs your skin and provides poor insulation. Staying warm in the winter is all about layering garments that do a good job of insulating you from the cold. I recommend wearing more layers than you need, because it is better to have and not need than to need and not have. If you get too hot, just off take some layers. First, start with a wicking base layer, such as long johns. A lightweight core bottom and top are the bee’s knees and are super comfortable. I wear these 80 percent of the time when I’m in my waders, either as a base layer or as the only layer, because I run hot. A midlayer, a warmer pair of long johns, can be worn over this base layer. A midweight core bottom and top work great for a little extra warmth on chilly mornings or in 40-degree water. Lots of companies offer base layers and midlayers that wick moisture and provide warmth.
When it’s really cold out, there are a few options that you can wear over these layers, including a fleece midlayer full bib and an extreme core bottom and top. One thing I’ve noticed over the years is that the warmer your legs are, the warmer your feet will be. The blood in your legs feed your feet, so if your legs are cold, your feet will be freezing. Because I run extremely warm, I used to skimp on the warmer midlayer clothing so I wouldn’t heat up and sweat, which will make you get cold faster, but my feet were always really cold by the end of the day. Numbingly cold. Now that I wear an extra layer over my base, my toes are much more comfortable by the end of the day. Most of the time, I just wear the midweight layer clothing without the base, because a base layer plus midlayer is just a tad too much for me. Experiment and see what works for you.
Socks are also extremely important. I use a Merino lightweight hikers, Merino midweight hikers, and Merino extreme thermal socks. I wear both of the lighter ones under the extreme thermal socks in really cold water.
There are many waders on the market, with prices ranging from $100 to $850, but you do not want to be wading cold winter waters in waders you can’t trust, and I have found over the years that you get what you pay for. I love my waders with a zipper front — easy access when Nature calls, as well as easy in and easy out. We all have a budget, but I recommend at least getting a pair of the breathable Gore-Tex waders, preferably with a few more layers from the waist down to give you a bit more wear-and-tear protection when bushwhacking.
Boots are what keep you upright when wading water that’s just above freezing, and as with waders, you don’t want to skimp here. I like boots that are rock solid, especially in the ankles, but also fairly light. There’s nothing worse than a heavy boot when walking around all day on the riverbank. For winter fishing, I believe that the best options are felt soles with studs. I don’t fish in anything else. Just be aware that both Montana and Alaska have outlawed felt studded boots, because felt can become the host for invasive organisms. Normally, if you wear a size 10 shoe, you need to get a size 11 wading boot, but for winter, a size 12 allows more room for thicker socks. The tighter your boots, the colder your feet will get, because blood circulation is the key in the winter.
To top off your clothes, waders, and boots, you will need a good wading rain jacket. I prefer a jacket that has a cuff-over design that helps keep the rain from going down your sleeves. Match it up with a warm winter hat or beanie and fingerless gloves, with or without fold-over mitts. I like any gloves that are windproof, water resistant or waterproof, and either fleece lined or made out of fleece.
Finally, keep an extra pair of your steelhead fishing clothes in your vehicle, just in case you fall in. This has saved me many of times during some very cold, but fishy days when I hit it just right and didn’t want to go home, even though I was wet and cold.
— Brian Clemens
