Every year, hundreds of thousands of people flock to the eastern Sierra, lured by the beauty and recreational opportunities for which the area is famous. Many are fly fishers, and they congregate throughout the region in predictable patterns, returning again and again to fish familiar favorite waters. From Highway 395, the dozen or so lateral roads that lead to the area’s streams and lakes are heavily used by anglers.
Maybe you’re one of these visitors. You pull into a parking area to find it full of other cars and find other anglers lined up along the stream banks or lake shores. There are good reasons why the old standbys are popular, but there is more to eastside fly fishing than the tried and true. It’s well worth seeking out the paths less traveled.
It’s true that not everyone wants to take a chance on using some of their valuable leisure time to explore the unknown. Others may be more invested in the family traditions involved in visiting a certain lodge or area. Still, there are those who know they’re in a rut, but are not sure how to break out of it. Well, there are no ruts in California’s extensive backcountry.
Most people would associate the idea of backcountry with high-altitude landscapes set against a dramatic background of rock. But there are many backcountry areas that are at lower altitudes and involve forests or other topographic features and that are not actually difficult to access or require physical effort and lots of time to reach.
The backcountry is just a combination of place and state of mind — a place of solitude where you can establish a connection with the world beyond, an environment of flowing water where what you are casting for is not necessarily just fish. It is an experience of contrasts. Although the setting can often be grandiose — wide open bowls, deep valleys, or the alpine expanses of timberline — the fishing itself is intimate. The waters, be they streams or lakes, are small and frequently feel more compressed due to rock falls, cliffs, or dense willows. The trout are smaller, too. The fish have very short growth windows, as little as four months, and there is a less biomass available to sustain growth. They make up for this lack of size with a charming aggressiveness and uncommon beauty. But part of the allure is that an angler is often alone, without a view of others. Backcountry days can feature far more fish than fishers.
The backcountry is also a great place for someone who is learning to fly fish. My fly-fishing career was saved by a trip over McGee Pass to the head of Fish Creek. I had taken a casting lesson and was trying mightily to figure out what I was doing, but it really frustrating and my efforts were marked by a singular lack of success. Three or four days on Fish Creek gave me the opportunity to calm down, and the eager response of the fish was a critical boost to my confidence. Most importantly, it was the first time that fly fishing was actually fun. If you have someone who you would like to get amped up on the sport, the backcountry is a great introductory classroom.
Planning Your Trip
It is possible to enjoy quality backcountry fishing in a day or less — it doesn’t require a multiday backpacking or pack trip or a weekend or overnight stay, as much fun as those can be. In my younger years, I spent a lot of time on extended backpacking trips, but as I got older, and the process of aging began to weigh upon me, I realized that day or half-day trips can be a great way to get some distance from the pavement and enjoy backcountry fishing in solitude. You don’t even have to go that far. Several backcountry streams I have fished over the course of a dozen or so years are within sight of a road, if you know where to look. Each is a small or medium-sized stream with a healthy population of trout. I have not run into more than two or three other people in the whole time I have fished them. Angling in a deliberate fashion, I can spend a couple of hours fishing on less than a half mile of stream. As I said, backcountry is a state of mind, as much as it is a location.
However, there is an art to picking a place to go. A lot of factors can be involved: the type of landscape that calls to you, the amount of time available, the kind of fish or type of water you are seeking, your fishing style, or maybe the chance to see bird life or wildflowers in bloom. Information and inspiration can come from a wide variety of sources: stories from other anglers or fishing publications, advice from a local fly shop, a picture in a book or on the wall of a photo gallery, or an online rumor. And be curious as you are driving. Whenever I cross a creek, I wonder if it has fish in it, where it came from, and where it is going. Is there somewhere up or downstream that it is far enough removed from the road to offer opportunities for some solitary angling? I have found several sweet little streams this way; it feels like having discovered my own pot of gold.
One way to look for a place to go is to think in terms of watersheds and trailheads. Most trails are oriented to water flowing out of the mountains. In the eastern Sierra, there are more than thirty major trailheads located off Highway 395 between Bridgeport and Lone Pine. Each of them is an access point to excellent fishing opportunities. You can start with a general area that calls to you (say within a 30-minute drive of Mammoth Lakes), check out the trips that begin at the various trailheads in that zone, identify a couple of possible destinations, and then narrow it from there. The California Department of Fish and Wildlife, by the way, has an “Eastern Sierra Back Country Fishing Guide” available for downloading at https://www.wildlife.ca.gov/Regions/6. It can help you find waters to fish and, by identifying fishless lakes, waters to ignore.
The major concern is making sure you are setting out on a trip that is manageable in terms of your experience and physical abilities. There are factors of safety involved, but this is supposed to be a good time, too. Few things are as unfun as having to force yourself to go farther than you can go without discomfort or finding yourself in a situation in which there is a real opportunity for harm. This is not to say that you should not challenge yourself, but maybe not the first time out. If your first trip turns into a death march, there is not much likelihood that you will return, and the wonders of the backcountry will elude you forever.
Once you have a general idea of where you are headed, collect some information. There are books that describe backcountry angling destinations and how to get to them. These are valuable, but they often contain more descriptions of the final destinations and less about what is required to reach them. A good source of help in this regard are guidebooks for hikers and backpackers. A basic reference library would include Sierra North: Backcountry Trips in California’s Sierra Nevada, 9th edition, by Mike White, Stacey Corless, and Thomas Winnet (Wilderness Press, 2005), with a new edition forthcoming in 2020, Sierra South: Backcountry Trips in California’s Sierra Nevada, by Kathy Morey and others (Wilderness Press, 2006), Starr’s Guide to the John Muir Trail, by Walter Augustus Starr (Sierra Club, 1970), and The High Sierra: Peaks, Passes, Trails, by R. J. Secor (Mountaineers Books, 2009). These books all contain detailed descriptions of the hiking, particularly elevation gain and loss and exposure to sun and wind. Most of the trips in the guidebooks are for multiple days, but ideas for single days can be found by looking at the description of the first day and the trail just above the trailhead. I think I have read the description of most of the trips in my part of the world, even though I had no intention of making the entire journey. I just want to see if a nice day of fishing is contained in there somewhere.
Look for a trip that follows or parallels a stream course. Most of the people who depart from the trailhead will simply follow the path to the identified destination, and in the beginning part of the trip, they are full of energy and eager to make miles. Even people who fish usually are going to the end point of the trail, marching past literally miles of fishable water. The hiking guides identify major stream crossings. Trails often run along ridges and away from these streams after the crossings, leaving the creek to you. Drop off the trail above or below the crossing and explore the angling. Off the main trail, there may be game trails or faint use trails along the creek, but be prepared to have to navigate obstacles: willows, bogs, and deadfalls. All of these impediments guard relatively unfished water. Another good bet are the streams that connect destination lakes and their inlets or outlets.
Before jumping off the trail, make sure you take look at a topographic map of the location. Pay attention to the contour lines. You are seeking places where the stream does not have a precipitous drop, affording access and the ability to follow the creek without falling off a cliff. Be wary of the possibility of walking into a place that could be difficult to exit, Large areas of green can indicate meadows or forested areas with fishable reaches.
A map in some form or another is the principal tool for avoiding getting lost. I am a topo-map guy, and I carry a map even if I am going to a place that I have been before. I do not have experience with electronic navigation devices and cannot offer any suggestions about their use. I do know that my map has not had its batteries expire or otherwise malfunction. For a good discussion of maps and their use, see Dan Sedegren’s “Maps and Small Streams” in the January/February 2012 issue of California Fly Fisher.
Beyond Day Trips
Once you have a few day trips under your belt, consider extending your range by trying an overnight or weekend backpacking trip. If you have not been backpacking for a while or maybe not ever, there are ways to give it a try without breaking the bank. Equipment can be rented, and the rental place may have some ideas on where to go. Get some advice about what you need to eat, sleep, and keep out of the weather. There is no need to start with all the bells and whistles. Keep things light and simple until you decide if it is an activity in which you want to make a further investment. It really is a freeing experience to function for a couple of days with a minimum amount of stuff. If you are anxious about heading off on your own, many organizations and stores such as REI put together organized trips. Don’t worry if the trip is not sponsored by a fishing organization. The idea is to get out there. On my wife’s first extended backcountry trip, she was the only member of the party who fished, which meant that she had upper Mono Creek all to herself.
Overnight trips are subject to a variety of regulations. Many require trailhead or wilderness permits, which can be obtained from the appropriate land-management agency: the National Forest or National Park. You can apply in advance using the Internet or take your chances by walking up to a Forest Service or Park office. If you take the latter approach, be prepared with a couple of alternate destinations in case the quota for your first choice has been filled. There are also campfire restrictions, food-preparation and storage requirements, and some camping restrictions of which you should be aware. If you come to like these longer trips to the woods, the sky and your available time are the limit. A long (in time) trip is a real treat and a perfect way to enjoy excellent fly fishing while clearing out you head and spending time just appreciating where you are. If you do not think you are physically capable of such a trip, investigate the options available from one of the many Sierra horse-packing outfits. This option has extended my time and range in the wilderness by many years.
Gear for Backcountry Angling
There is no need for heavyweight rods, reels, and drags in the backcountry. A 4-weight rod is probably as much as you will ever need. My two rods of choice are a 9-1/2-foot five-piece 4-weight and an 8-1/2-foot four-piece 3-weight. I would acknowledge that these are possibly a bit long for these small streams and their brushy environs, but I have trouble casting a short fly rod. The key is the multiple pieces, which makes it much easier to navigate with the rod attached to a day or backpack. A half section of a nine-foot rod tied to a pack will find every low tree branch in the forest. Do not try to use your rod as a walking staff. I witnessed an attempt to do this, and it did not turn out well. Both of my rods are equipped with a small, lightweight reel. Backcountry leaders do not have to be long. Start with a basic 7-1/2-foot length. Finesse is important, because of the very clear and often low water, so I do most of my fishing with a 6X tippet.
The backcountry would also seem to be ideal for a tenkara rod. Their light weight and the fact that they compress into a short length makes them a perfect candidate to be carried around in a day pack. Most of the streams in the backcountry are of small size, which is also a match with tenkara gear. They have the added advantage of not requiring a reel or a lot of stuff for rigging up. There are many people who swear by these rods. I have not yet fished with one, but I am pretty sure that will no longer be the case next fall.
People seem to find comfort in carrying a lot of flies. I try to work with a minimal palette, almost all of the dry variety. The box will contain an ant pattern, Parachute Adamses, Blue-Winged Olives, and caddis, Paracaddis, mayfly, BWO, and midge emergers, along with some attractors such as Royal Wulffs, Sierra Bright Dots, and Humpys. These are in sizes 14 through 18, mostly 16. There are also Stimulators and grasshopper imitations in sizes 10 through 14. There are times when I will also have a few nymphs in sizes 10 through 14 with tungsten beads to eliminate the need to carry weights. These are usually packed when I am going back to a location where it seems like it would have been a good idea to have them before. Prudence would probably suggest just bringing them all the time. All these flies will fit into a small commercial fly box. You can also make small boxes by gluing foam into empty Altoid tins. Two or three of these will fit easily in a large shirt or pants pocket.
There is no need for a vest. The pockets of a shirt and/or pants will hold the flies and an extra leader. The rest of my gear fits onto a neck lanyard, This holds nippers, forceps, a leader straightener, fly gel and floatant, a mini flashlight, emergency whistle, and spools of tippet in 4X through 7X. I can fit all of this and my reel into a Ziploc bag that I stuff in my pack so I am not hiking along with my gear banging and clattering around. Once I get to the point where the fishing begins, it is easy to stuff the fly boxes in pockets and don the lanyard. For day trips, I am currently using a smallish camelback-type pack that holds a water bladder and has a couple of back pockets adequate for my gear, lunch, survival kit, and an extra layer or two. I like the ability to sip water as I walk along without having to stop and pull a water bottle out of a pack. The only disadvantage is that you cannot tell how much water is being drained from the carrier. I learned that it is possible to run dry crossing a hot, dry ridge with no chance to refill . . . the result was a case of heatstroke. Now I check every time I am near a source of water to replace what I have been drinking.
Be Safe Out There
Being safe away from the car is a fairly simple matter of common sense and a little equipment. As mentioned before, your trip should reflect an honest assessment of your capabilities. Trying to do too much is the cause of many backcountry misfortunes. Know what is involved in your trip. It is important to travel in the backcountry with confidence. As I have gotten older, I have ratcheted down the level of difficulty on the trails and in the terrain in which I choose to travel and also have begun to follow an exercise routine designed to build and maintain my balance skills.
Gauging the demands of a trip is not simply a matter of distance, although that is important. In the eastern Sierra, a more significant factor is the rate of altitude gain and loss. A relatively short walk with a steep climb is more demanding than a longer trek along flat terrain. If you are not used to walking uphill, start with something modest and work your way into more demanding trips. You are going to be operating at altitude. If you are not used to it or have not acclimatized, you are asking for trouble with altitude sickness or worse. Know the signs of altitude distress: shortness of breath, nausea, and/or a severe headache. If you are experiencing any of them, stop and head back down.
Wear proper footwear. This does not mean you need heavy-duty hiking boots, but it also does not mean flip-flops. Wear sturdy shoes to protect toes, stabilize your ankles, and provide traction on loose rock and sand. Take precautions against blisters, and you are ready to go.
Carry sunscreen, lip protection, and insect repellent. Make sure you have a hat. Carry extra water and/or a cup and purifying device and make sure you stay hydrated before you think you are thirsty. A simple first-aid kit designed to deal with cuts and scrapes, insect stings, headaches, and pain will keep a simple irritant from ruining your day. I also have rudimentary survival stuff that includes matches, a map, mirror, and whistle, some cord, and a multitool or Swiss Army knife. Weather is subject to quick and dramatic changes: rain can materialize quickly, wind even more so. Temperatures can drop 20 degrees in less than half an hour. Check the weather forecast before you leave. Even if the forecast is for clear and sunny skies, you should have layers for warmth and protection from wind and rain. Very lightweight gear is available for people who engage in ultralight backpacking. This kind of gear will let you be protected without carrying a burdensome load. If weather conditions change and you are unprepared, get out. Know how to deal with lightning.
There is a lot of country out there with boundless chances for a good changeup from your normal angling routine. Take the paths less traveled. You already have most of the gear you’ll need. Information is abundant and easily accessed, and a lot of the pleasure comes in the planning. Shake it up, strike out, and find your own secret backcountry gem.
