Many of us who walk and wade the big valley rivers see drift boats glide by on a continual basis, some that are private and others that are piloted by a seasoned guide. We’re envious at times and think of all the water they have available to them. If you’re lucky enough to know a friend with a drift boat or a buddy who is a guide and who takes you out on his day off, then you know the freedom of the drift. Covering water is a sure bet to increase your catch rate, because you are for the most part making presentations to unmolested fish in hard-to-reach areas off the beaten path. Drift boats are expensive, though, they have to be trailered, and they need to be stored, so for many people, they’re not an option.
There is another angle, though, and one I chose in the late 1990s in order to explore the Middle Fork of the Feather River — a personal pontoon watercraft. It helped me see the big picture of that watershed, where the good runs are located and the unproductive sections that do not fish so well. It also allowed me to pinpoint exactly where to go when I fished off the bank on future trips. I did not necessarily fish out of the craft that much, but I used it as a taxi to float from gravel bars to untracked banks of the river. It was fun — filled with adventure as I rounded every corner into the unknown.
Many anglers do not realize what a pontoon boat can offer on rivers, especially when it comes to taming the big water. I had a client last spring ask me to instruct him on the parameters of operating a pontoon boat on the lower Yuba River. He was a complete novice, and the day was filled with many blunders, but after it was all over, he realized what a valuable tool drifting a river in a pontoon boat can be. You could see it in his eyes. He was hooked. You may be, too, by the wonderful and peaceful experience of gliding down the rippling waters.
Buying a ’Toon Boat
Buying a pontoon boat should be approached like any serious purchase that involves your safety. Not just any boat will work. When I bought my Camo Cat 9 way back in 1998, I did hours of research. My pontoon is now considered a dinosaur, with its heavy metal frame and a design on which newer boats have improved. However, 17 years later, it’s still a bombproof craft that easily handles big water and technical rapids.
The first aspect to consider is what type of water you mostly will be floating — flat, broad rivers, or choppy moving waters with rapids. Pontoon shapes with a rocker design are best for rugged flows, yet still allow the operator to use them in gentler conditions. I find that nine-foot pontoons are best, because they offer a long footprint for stability, yet are still highly maneuverable. You’ll also want to make sure the pontoons themselves are well constructed, with urethane bladders that are welded and with chafe panels that protect the pontoons from the frame.
Most frames are aluminum now, but some companies still offer steel frames. Aluminum is very light, strong, and makes your boat easier to carry. Steel is much heavier, though a bit stronger. Many of us float solo, so being able to carry your craft to the water is of importance. And the size and weight of the boat when ready to be transported also should be a consideration, depending on the size of your vehicle.
Your own weight will also be a factor, as well as how much of a load you plan on bringing, whether it’s a day float or an overnighter. Every boat manufactured has restrictions in regard to the overall load mass it can handle.
You’ll want strong foot bars, to push off of when using the oars. The stronger and more comfortable the foot bar is, the more leverage you have and the greater effectiveness you have when paddling. The foot bars and seat should be adjustable to fit a variety of body lengths, because a comfortable seat makes a huge difference when you’re in the saddle all day. You may want to opt for a boat that has a welded, built-in anchoring system, as well.
You’ll want sturdy, reliable oars, with a medium-sized blade. Don’t compromise on price when it comes to your means of propulsion and control on the river. I learned the hard way when I got started and had to make some critical modifications to my oars.
Your safety will be is dependent on the durability, toughness, and a reliability of your boat, as will your enjoyment of it out on the water. Seeing pontoon boats in person at sports shows and talking with knowledgeable sales representatives can help answer the questions you might have. Manufacturers may even have a demo day in your area when you can test the boats in the water.
Must-have accessories include, first and foremost, a personal flotation device. If the worst-case scenario happens and you flip your boat or fall out, you want to be able to survive and come home to your loved ones. I use a standard flotation vest with quick-lash straps and pockets. This also doubles as my fishing vest. Attached are nippers and hemostats, some tippet spools, and a couple of fly boxes in the front pockets. Inflatable PFDs are another option and offer more comfort without the bulk. The next level up is an automatically inflating PFD, in case you are knocked unconscious and can’t pull the inflation cord. Whichever model you choose, do not attempt to float unless you are wearing a PFD.
A repair kit is essential and good insurance when you’re miles from your take-out destination. Mine has saved me more than once. You can buy complete repair kits ready to go from many manufacturers. All repair kits should have a multitool that includes a Philip’s-head screwdriver. Add duct tape for minor leaks, a patch kit made for urethane bladders for medium to major tears, an extra oarlock with four safety clips, an extra oar stop, and heavy-duty industrial zip ties. Carrying waterproof matches in a watertight container is a smart move in case you have no other option than to spend the night on the river due to equipment failure. Being prepared for the worst is the best plan, no matter what the day brings.
One other major tool to bring along is an air pump. Weather can greatly affect the air pressure in the bladders of pontoons boats. Cold, overcast skies, combined with cold water temperatures, can cause the air in them to contract. This makes your bladders mushy, which in turn makes your craft ride low and be sluggish. You want to be riding high at all times. Conversely, hot, sunny conditions will make the air in your bladders expand, and you’ll want to open up the valves from time to time during the day to bring the pressure in line with the manufacturer’s specifications. Overinflation can cause the bladder to rupture by splitting a factory-welded seam.
When it comes to carrying your rod, I have found that a rod case that carries a fully rigged rod broken down into two sections is indispensable. I strap the rod case on the inside of one pontoon while resting it on the frame. When you beach your boat, simply unzip the case and pull your rod out, assemble it, and you’re ready to fish. Other accessories that are nice to have include a dry bag for all your gear, cargo pockets for holding even more supplies or your lunch, and a stripping apron when you’re anchored and fishing out of the boat.
Row, Row, Row Your Boat
If you have never rowed a boat before, you’re in for a surprise. It’s not as easy as it looks. We all have different skill sets, and some will find it easier than others. My best advice before running moving water is to practice the basic maneuvers on still water. In these conditions, you are in control without fear of spinning helplessly down into a rapid. Practice your rowing strokes both forward and backward. The goal here is to use both oars at the same time while tracking a straight course. Also, learning single backstrokes to position your boat left and right is essential. With one swift pull, you should be able to spin at least 180 degrees in a second. This technique is critical for positioning your boat perfectly in changing currents.
Next, with both oars in the water, use your hands to change direction without lifting the oars out of the water. This is done by pulling back on one oar and pushing forward with the other, like a steering wheel on a vehicle.
You’ll also want to practice both shallow and deep “digs” with the oars, controlling the depth that the blade of your oar digs into the water. There will be many times while floating that you will encounter skinny water, and if you make too deep a dig, your blade will strike the bottom and may cause your oar to jump out of the oarlock or, even worse, the blade may shatter. Paddling in shallow water is very technical and deserves your full attention.
Moving from one side of the river to the other is the most important maneuver to master. Until you learn this, you’re going to have problems. The only way to learn this technique is to be in moving water, so choose a run that is fairly gentle, without any obstacles. To move from the river-right side of the river to the left, pull back on the right oar and position your boat at a 45-degree angle to the left bank. Now pull back with both oars in unison, moving across the river in a straight line. When you’re ready to straighten out, push forward on your right oar. To move from left to right, reverse the above procedure. With each float, you will learn the idiosyncrasies of piloting your boat, positioning it exactly where you want it to go.
When anchoring your craft to fish from it, choose an area with little current, yet next to the main flow where the concentration of aquatic insects are in the drift. You’ll have to experiment with different anchors to keep you and your boat in a fixed position. In general, a 10-pound pyramid anchor does a pretty good job. Remember, it’s not so much the weight of the anchor, but the design of it that keeps it and you in place.
There is a huge safety factor involved in anchoring in moving water with a pontoon boat, because a strong current flow can suck the rear end underwater. If that begins to happen, pull up the anchor immediately. Always keep a sharp pocket knife close at hand, and if your anchor gets stuck during such an event, pull out the knife as soon as possible and cut the anchor line. Live to fish another day.
Gently Down the Stream
Information from experienced drifters or fly shops can help immensely when planning your floats. In fact, on your first float, I highly recommend that you be accompanied by an experienced buddy in another craft who can help out if you lose your focus and who can direct you in performing the proper techniques. Floating with another person also makes a shuttle possible when the float comes to an end and you’re done for the day.
Before you hit the water, you should research where the launches and takeouts are for that particular river. If possible, scout these in person before getting on the water. For example, the take-out at Sycamore Ranch on the lower Yuba is tucked back to the right at the apex of a big, sweeping left-hander. It’s tricky for novices, and if you miss it, there is no other public take-out below it. Also factor in the distance of your first drift. Three to five miles would be a good start for a novice learning to float.
While drifting big water, focus on what’s coming up at all times. Really look ahead and study the currents, as well as obstacles that may be dangerous. Think like a rally-car driver who is looking far ahead for the line, yet still pays attention to what’s right in front of the car. When you have decided on a spot that you would like to fish, you need to adjust way ahead of time and put yourself in position to prepare for landing on the intended bank. The inside of big corners is a likely spot to do so, and more often than not, such places have water with less current — soft water. As you near the bank, there is a point at which you have to stand up while holding onto your boat and bracing yourself at the same time. Current can make this complicated, and the softer the water, the easier it is. If you have an anchor system, drop it immediately. A 20-foot piece of high-quality rope attached to your boat also comes in handy to tie it off on something solid, such as a large log, a clump of willows, or a big boulder. More than one angler has had the boat slip away and float downstream. When everything is secured, it’s time to study the water and begin your quest with rod in hand.
Practice and Plan
Before you attempt to float more technical water that presents serious obstacles and dangers, I recommend that you put in many hours on the easier rivers. The more hours you have behind the oars, the more you will be able to make the correct split-second responses to any situation, acting on instinct. If you ever have questions about an upcoming section of the river, get out of your boat and scout the water below, taking mental notes on line choices.
Even with a good plan, anything can happen. One float I made during spring runoff on the Middle Fork of the Feather from Clio to the Highway 89 bridge gave me the scare of a lifetime. There was a long, sweeping right-hander with a large logjam on the left-hand side, I set up for the right side way in advance and thought I had it made. Then the strong current pushed me left, directly at the logjam. I missed one paddling stroke, and that’s all it took. I came crashing into the woody debris. Stunned, I regained my composure, but the current was sucking my boat deeper underwater and into the heart of the jam. I was stuck, as was my left oar. With quick thinking, I pulled the right oar out of the oarlock and used it to push off the wood with all my might, freeing myself. I never told my parents about that one. So even if you have the skills and are in good physical shape, you can still be in grave danger while running difficult technical water. Never panic, and keep your cool. Floating this type of water should never be done solo. It demands the buddy system, where you watch each other’s back at all times.
Pontoon boats open many doors for fly anglers looking to cover more water on California’s rivers. Besides being an effective tool, floating down a river is some of the best therapy known. It’s inspiring and adventurous. Seek out the glide, and relish the opportunities that a personal watercraft can offer.
