In the eastern Sierra, people spend a lot of time pining for the fall. Winter is winter . . . what more can we say. Spring over here is such a tease, arriving in fits and starts as it struggles to break free from the dark and cold. The arrival of the things of spring — birds, leaves, flowers, and freedom from layers of clothing — is repeatedly interrupted by freak snowstorms as the calendar moves all the way into May. The change in conditions is so incremental that there seems to be just a single week or two of actual spring, quickly overwhelmed by the heat and crowds of summer. Summer seems endless, with hot, dry, and dusty days. But the promise of fall sustains you through the 100-degree days in the Owens Valley.
For those who fish, that promise is even more compelling, because autumn in the eastern Sierra brings excellent angling in terms of both weather conditions and results. I am not sure what could be better than a sunny October day of dry-fly fishing, topped off with a Monday Night Football game and a couple of cold beverages. Although fall can announce itself in late August with cool, crisp mornings that make you wonder if you have enough wood in for the winter, I think of fall angling as beginning around the first of September and extending until the final day of the general trout season in November. There are great opportunities throughout the region, from the remote areas of the high country to the lakes and streams of the Bridgeport, Mono, Mammoth, and Owens River basins. Fall fishing can be more productive, because you can fish longer hours in the cooling temperatures, and there is less of a midday doldrums effect.
If you plan to visit during the autumn, it is a good idea to get up-to-date information from local sources before deciding on a potential destination. This is true no matter where you are thinking of going. Each water is different, and flow conditions in the streams can vary greatly from year to year. What you remember from your last visit is not necessarily going to be what’s going on now. Streams such as the Middle Fork of the San Joaquin River and the West Fork of the Walker River can drop to a point where fishing becomes problematic. The same can be the case in areas of the backcountry. On the other hand, you also cannot count on the idea that all streams will be experiencing diminished flows. Streams that are the sources of irrigation water can increase in volume as irrigation demands diminish. For any “managed” stream with impoundments and downstream user requirements, water flows do not follow a “normal” seasonal variation due to the schedules and needs of water managers. They manipulate stream levels to accommodate various demands, to allow system maintenance, and to try and ensure there is adequate storage for projected precipitation in the next water year. Thus, Rush Creek can often run at some of its highest levels of the year in late October and November. A call to a local fly shop or a visit to the Los Angeles Department of Water and Power real-time stream flow website, http://wsoweb.ladwp.com/Aqueduct/realtime/norealtime.htm, can yield some helpful information.
Autumn Angling
In the fall, water temperatures begin to drop, and the water carries a higher load of dissolved oxygen, which makes fish more active as they move away from the torpor of midsummer and prepare for the coming winter. Trout become more aggressive feeders looking to fuel up for months of cold weather.
Autumn also brings a reduction in the number of active insect species, which means that pattern selection is somewhat simplified. As the overall numbers of insects begins to drop, the trout become more aggressive in pursuing those that remain. Ants and hoppers will be present at the beginning of the season and generally persist into early or mid-October. Work these patterns during the middle of the day. Fall hatches, which are mainly Baetis, caddisflies, and midges, are morning and afternoon affairs. This is a very productive time for the dry-fly angler, but there are fish, often substantial ones, to be had using nymphs and streamers.
Fall fish will disperse into more areas of the stream than they occupied in the summer, returning to tailout and shallower riffle sections. Although bright, crystal-clear days are the highlights of autumn, the fishing can be more productive under an overcast sky with a touch of wind. These are the Baetis days that dry fly anglers covet. Fishing seems to improve with the presence of a storm front, as long as there is not a drastic drop in temperature. Both Baetis mayflies and midges are present on these overcast days. On the clearer days, try caddis imitations or look to your nymph or streamer patterns.
The Backcountry
Fall angling starts with the backcountry, where fall can arrive as early as Labor Day. Backcountry fishing at this time is a special experience. The days can be beautifully clear, hiking is not nearly as hot and demanding, and there are fewer people present with each passing week. Water temperatures begin to drop earlier in small streams, so the positive effects of fall are felt earlier up high.
Fall can present challenges due to low and clear water, which means skittish fish. This is compounded by the fact that the angle of the sun is declining, casting longer shadows across the water, including yours. Fish are put down by any careless actions by the angler. This angling demands stealth and patience, a low profile, and slow movements. Keep your casting to a minimum, and try to play and land fish as quickly as possible without causing them harm. As you come up to the stream, take time to plan your approach and execute it with a minimum of commotion and visible presence. I find myself doing a lot of downstream-drifting presentations in the fall to keep my casts as short as I can. I also find that the takes in the fall seem to be more subtle and that I need to be a bit more deliberate in attempting to set the hook.
In the backcountry, you will find a lot of locations with spawning brook trout. Brown trout also spawn this time of year. Both species look for tailout water, side channels, or the mouths of tributaries. The fish are seeking stream bottoms with clean gravel. Spawners will be located in or near the shallower stretches, so work water you might not find attractive during the summer. If you wade the streams during this time (which usually is not necessary), avoid walking in gravel stretches and shallow riffles and be on the lookout for redds that indicate the presence of spawning fish. Watch for oval or bowl-shaped depressions in which the gravel is clean or the vegetation on the stream bottom is disturbed. Brook trout are also able to spawn in lakes and will be found near upwelling springs and inlets.
I keep my fall backcountry gear pretty simple: a 3-weight or 4-weight rod with a slightly longer and smaller leader and tippet to avoid spooking trout. Because early in the fall there will still be populations of terrestrials, particularly hoppers, I make sure I haven’t retired these patterns. I also carry a few more attractors, such as Royal Wulffs, Sierra Bright Dots, and Humpies, because there are fewer hatches present up there. The rest of the box is the same as earlier in the year, with mayfly and caddis imitations.
Autumn plays into my bias toward dry-fly fishing, particularly in the backcountry, but you can also have success with small nymph and beadhead patterns, particularly in the remaining deep pools and runs. I have started making small, light fly boxes by gluing foam into empty Altoids tins. Two or three of these will hold enough flies for a day on a small backcountry stream and are lighter and easier to carry.
Backcountry lakes can also be rewarding in the fall. The trout there have had all summer to feed and grow and, like their stream-borne relatives, now are eager to fatten up in anticipation of the coming winter. The cooler days bring a mixing of the water, and fish distribution evens out, with trout moving closer to shore for longer periods of the day. Concentrate your attention on inlet and outlet areas, which attract spawning fish.
The Valley
Like water, autumn flows downhill, and the as the season progresses, focus shifts to the fishing on the valley floors. The lower-elevation streams offer great opportunities in the fall. A main attraction is the upper Owens River above Crowley Lake. Every October, anglers flock to the area to fish for spawning brown trout and a species of fall-spawning rainbows as they run upstream from the lake. The fish will move all the way upstream to Big Springs. This spawning run can last into early November. Check with local fly shops and guide services to find out when the fish are moving and where they are located in the river. Remember to exercise caution if you are wading the stream to avoid damaging spawning beds.
There are numerous access points to the Owens between Crowley Lake and the private ranches upstream. Maps are available from Fly Fishing the Sierra at http://stevenojai.tripod.com. The upper Owens is subject to a number of special regulations. Above the Benton Crossing bridge, there is a two-fish limit with a 16-inch maximum, using only barbless hooks, from the last Saturday in April through November 15. From November 16 to the Friday before the last Saturday in April, the area is catch-and-release only. Below the bridge to the Fishing Monument, the river is closed to fishing from October 1 through the Friday preceding Memorial Day. Below the monument, there is a two-fish, 18-inch maximum limit, with fishing restricted to barbless hooks from August 1 through November 15. From November 16 through the general trout opener in April, the area is closed to angling.
Autumn on the upper Owens is the time and place for subsurface fishing, even for me. On one my first trips for fall fishing on the Owens, I was fortunate to be in the company of Eric “Otis” Hien, a legendary guide out of Mammoth Lakes. He had me using a setup with two small flashy beadhead nymphs. I was fishing with 4X tippet, relatively heavy due to the potential size of the fish. The water was a bit discolored, but it was an otherwise gorgeous October afternoon, and the surrounding mountains seemed so close you could reach out and touch them. I was fishing with the current running right to left toward the lake at a deep run located between two curves in the river. The technique was short-line nymphing using enough weight to assure that the flies were bouncing along the bottom. I would guess that each drift was no more than 10 or 12 feet in length. At the end of each pass, I would lift up using a semiroll cast and flick the flies upstream into another drift. I worked my way slowly upstream, because Otis emphasized covering the entire river, side to side. He stood at my shoulder to keep me alert to the subtle takes of the trout.
And there were takes during a truly memorable afternoon. I was on to a dozen or more trout whose abilities generally exceeded mine. I entertained everyone around me by stumbling up and down the muddy bank, trying to keep up with the powerful runs of the fish. I managed to land a few. Two were in excess of 22 inches. I am forever indebted to my friend for this experience, which I have not been able to repeat, but have come close enough to bring me back every fall. It was an afternoon spent with a knowledgeable fishing expert who was genuinely happy to see me have success. If, like me, you are not used to this style of fishing, a guide instructor is a good idea, and there are many available in the eastern Sierra.
Use a thicker, shorter leader than you would for casting dry flies. These can be heavy fish, so a tippet of 3X or 4X is not inappropriate at the end of a 6-foot or 7-foot leader. Experiment with a weight system to find that fine line between hugging the bottom and constantly hanging up. If you are not experiencing some snags, you are not deep enough. Carry an assortment of beadheads in sizes all the way from 14 through 20. A good selection could include Prince, Pheasant Tail, Gold-Ribbed Hare’s Ear, Zebra, and Tiger Nymphs. Many people fish these in a flashback tie. Have something your eye can focus on during the drifts, whether it’s a strike indicator, color on the end of the line, or the first foot or so of the leader or the end of the line itself. This kind of fishing takes a lot of concentration, because the takes are often very subtle — just a slight hesitation in the drift. Make your casts slowly and deliberately, covering all of the water you can reach while still managing a short line. Fully fish out every drift, and then move slightly upstream and repeat. I would suggest moving no more than three feet at a time. Another productive approach is to strip streamers through the deep holes and undercut banks of the river. I use Woolly Buggers, Hornbergs, and Goblins. Fish the flies deep, and thoroughly explore the water. Dry flies can be used on the upper Owens in the fall, but will generally attract smaller trout.
As winter settles into the upper Owens River, good fishing drops downstream through the gorge and into the waters of the lower Owens. This past summer, work commenced on repairs to the infrastructure in the gorge that will raise the flows to approximately 550 cubic feet per second for an unknown period of time. If you are coming to fish, make sure to check the flow information to determine the status of the project. Although this will disrupt the fishing over the short term, the higher flows are predicted to be beneficial to the trout population by scouring out pools and gravel runs.
Another worthwhile destination is the East Fork of the Walker River. Brown trout are also spawning in this river in the fall. Anglers explore the river using the same streamer patterns listed for the Owens, as well as probing the deeper reaches with small nymphs fished using a short-line technique. The river continues to be managed in response to downstream needs, so the flows will be variable throughout the fall. Again, it pays to check with a local source of information to get an indication of current conditions.
At Hot Creek, the area’s other iconic stream, conditions begin to change in midsummer. Increased temperatures and decreasing flows cause growth in algae and weeds. This buildup is a problem for anglers, because it can decreases the open water to areas of literally inches. It is a challenge that remains in place until there are sufficiently cold temperatures to cause a die-back of the vegetation. (Sections of Hot Creek, the upper Owens, and the East Walker are all open for fishing year-round.)
Hatches and Flies
Common hatches in the eastern Sierra in October include Blue-Winged Olives, October Caddises, Grannoms, and midges. Your fly box could include Zebra midges, WD-40s, olive Hare’s Ear Nymphs, Emergent Sparkle Pupas, Prince Nymphs, Pheasant Tail Nymphs, and Bob Brooks’s Sprout Emergers as a nymph selection. Dry flies could include Blue-Winged Olives, Parachute BWOs, Parachute Adams patterns, Stimulators in orange and in yellow, Cutter’s E/C Caddis, X-Caddis, and olive Elk Hair Caddis patterns, Griffith’s Gnats, and Martis Midges. These will range from sizes 16 through 20. Don’t forget a handful of the streamers mentioned above. If you decide to sample the eastern Sierra autumn fishing, there are some things you should bear in mind. The weather is wildly variable. I vividly remember an early September day at Benson Lake in the north Yosemite boundary area that began with productive fishing on a mostly breezy morning and ended with the beginning of a snowstorm that lasted for a day and a half. If you are going any significant distance from the car or will be out overnight, be sure you are carrying clothing that will hold up to cold, wet weather. On the other hand, when it is warm, it can be unexpectedly warm. You need your sunscreen and lip protection. There can still be some troublesome insects about, so be sure you are equipped with an effective means of repellent. After mid-September, the back of my car looks like an outdoor store’s bargain bin, with piles of warm-weather shirts, vests, heavy fleece layers, hats, gloves, shoes to wet wade, heavy waders, and storm gear. Also, hydration is an issue in any weather due to altitude and the effects of wind and either heat or cold. You will likely be fishing longer than you did during the heat of summer, so make sure you have enough water and energy snacks. And make sure, too, your car is ready for winter conditions, contains tire chains, and has the necessary snow equipment. The weather can change quickly.
Fall Colors in the Eastern Sierra
As if one were needed, fall colors are a perfect excuse for a visit to the Eastern Sierra, and you can maybe make points with the family by combining the beautiful displays with a little late-season angling. The arrival of fall in the eastern Sierra draws viewers and photographers from all over the world to chase after iconic vistas that will grace calendars and photo albums for the coming year. The Inyo and Mono County chambers of commerce and visitor bureaus have websites and brochures to help guide visitors to the best vistas. Look for fall colors throughout the region, particularly along the June Lake Loop and at Lundy Canyon, North Lake, Bishop Creek Canyon, Sabrina Lake, McGee and Rock Creeks, and Convict Lake.
The secret to the transformation is that the colors have been there all along. The majority of the cells in a plant’s leaves are devoted to food production. During the spring and summer, these chloroplast cells are so active that their green color overwhelms that of the rest of the leaf. The fall brings shorter days and cooler daytime and overnight temperatures, which cause the chlorophyll to break down and the reds, oranges, and yellows begin to emerge. Warm and sunny fall days result in high sugar production by the trees, which intensifies the leaf colors. Overcast days and warmer nights result in more muted effects. Thus, the impression that the colors change day by day is a correct one.
— Peter Pumphrey
