The North Fork of the Feather River begins in the watershed of Lassen National Park, feeds Lake Almanor near the town of Chester in Plumas County, and then flows out from Lake Almanor’s dam into a small canyon. From there, it enters Belden Forebay before eventually joining the East Branch of the North Fork near Gansner Bar. At this confluence, the two waterways form the largest strand of the North Fork of the Feather River, which runs in the canyon alongside Highway 70, flowing west toward Lake Oroville.
Prior to the river being nicknamed “The Stairway of Power,” due to all of the dams and power plants that now disrupt it, the North Fork was a blue-ribbon fishery and fly-fishing bonanza. While it has not retained that status over the years, I have found it to be a reliable river to fly fish for wild rainbows, many of them 14 inches and larger. What follows is what I learned about this river, which became my “home water” and my main river for guiding other fly fishers.
My first memories of the North Fork are from trips with my grandfather, driving up Highway 70. This section of road is today aptly named “The Feather River Scenic Byway.” Numerous waterfalls, large boulders, tunnels, and bridges make for an extraordinarily scenic ride, although some of the manmade intrusions are jarring.
The legend in my family is that after the highway was completed in 1937, my grandfather, Herman Leo Leonard, who went by “Bill,” learned of an excellent fishing hole on the Middle Fork of the Feather east of Quincy. He shared this with my father, who then shared it with me. My grandfather and grandmother purchased a cabin on the Hamilton Branch of the Feather River where it enters Lake Almanor. So beginning at that time in my early childhood, I have driven by the North Fork of the Feather River now for over 40 years. In fact, I never thought this section of the river was worth fishing, since we always drove past it, and I rarely saw anyone with a line in the water.
In 2005, my wife and I decided to duplicate what my grandparents did, and we purchased a piece of property between Quincy and Graeagle to develop into a vacation home. I was now regularly driving Highway 70 once again. As I drove by this beautiful river on my way to our new property, I wondered why my grandpa and I never fished it. I decided to give it a try. Over the next several years, I fished many spots next to the highway and was pleasantly surprised. On a number of visits I had 10-to-20-fish days, catching wild rainbows, with some over 20 inches. What also made it great was that I was often alone, with no other anglers except for those times I brought buddies.
I certainly cannot guarantee you will have one of those 10-to-20-fish days if you go there, but I can say that I’ve rarely been skunked and that many fish are usually hard-fighting wild rainbows, 14 inches and up. I’ve wondered whether since this was once a river with anadromous fish runs before the dams were built in the early 1900s, these rainbows are descendants of the steelhead that ran up this river.
Where to Fish the North Fork
I divide the North Fork canyon into sections formed by the dams and power plants that disrupt it. Heading upstream from Lake Oroville, the river consists of long, deep stretches with very little access. It is first interrupted by Poe Powerhouse and then by Poe Power Dam. There is access off of Highway 70 by taking the Big Bend exit and then going left on Bardees Bar Road. Using Google Earth or your Plumas National Forest maps, you can find a few other ways down to the river, but they are hard to come by. What is great about this lower section is that once you find a way to access a portion of it, it lies within the California Department of Fish and Wildlife’s Valley District and is open year-round from Lake Oroville to Cresta Powerhouse.
Upstream from Cresta Powerhouse, the river is subject to the traditional Sierra trout season, open the last Saturday in April through November 15. I have not spent much time on this section, since the river seems to have had more significant negative impacts from hydroelectric manipulation. Some of the best access points include Cresta Powerhouse, the Shady Rest area, and the confluence with Grizzly Creek.
The next section of river begins at the confluence of Rock Creek, just above Cresta Reservoir. Rock Creek itself offers good fly fishing upstream. Two powerhouses, Rock Creek and Bucks Creek, can heavily influence this section due to increased water flows, but fish can be found. There is a pretty riffle just below Bucks Creek Powerhouse.
The section upstream from Bucks Creek Powerhouse is controlled by Rock Creek Dam, which is approximately seven miles upstream. I’ve spent most of my time on this section of river, since there are some easily accessible stretches, and the river is more consistent, due to the releases of only one dam.
This section has numerous accessible places to explore. All of them can be productive. I have my favorites, but each year, I try to explore a new piece of water, and I’m usually pleasantly surprised. You will find a mix of runs, riffles, pools, and pocket water. At times, it can be a battle to penetrate the berry bushes, but once you find yourself on the river, you will likely get into some sizeable rainbows. Some of the slower water holds some very large Sacramento pikeminnows, which can trick you into thinking you’ve caught the biggest rainbow of your life until the fish shows itself, usually after a short fight.
One of the easiest stretches of river to fish along this seven-mile stretch, even at high flows, is at the Injun Jim School, now closed. Park at the school and walk about twenty yards to an easily workable section of river, both upstream and down. Both dries and nymphs work very well here. This water tends to get more pressure, due to its easy access.
The North Fork of the Feather is not a user-friendly river, for the most part, due to very fast water, deep holes, and lots of berry bushes to contend with. A wading staff is a must. In addition, many of the banks along the river are steep, making access difficult. The one exception is the Injun Jim School access mentioned above. I’ve never encountered rattlesnakes, but that doesn’t mean they aren’t there. Using a metal ski pole as a staff and banging it on rocks as you work your way along the stream helps to scare those guys away. Also be aware of the pervasive poison oak.
Tactics for the North Fork
Hatches are plenty on this river. In the spring and early summer, look for the giant orange Pteronarcys stoneflies, Golden Stoneflies, and Callibaetis mayflies. In late spring and summer, you can often find fish rising to caddisflies. I had an amazing day with my daughter one day late in May with rainbows taking size 14 caddisflies on the surface.
Dry-fly fishing can be excellent at times. In the spring, caddis imitations and orange Stimulators will frequently offer exceptional surface action. When the river opens at the end of April and in May, I’ve had great success during midday. As summer kicks into gear, the evening is productive with caddis hatches. But during these hot months, I spend most of my time nymphing in well-oxygenated water. One of my favorite flies at that time of the year is a size 14 brown Bird’s Nest.
Another great time for dries can be in the fall or winter, especially in a light rain, when the Blue-Winged Olives are hatching. Try a size 18 Parachute Adams or your favorite Baetis dry or emerger pattern. The dry-dropper technique is also effective. I like to use a size 8 to 12 orange Stimulator for the dry and size 14 Prince Nymph tied to the bend of the hook about three feet underneath it for the dropper.
For 75 percent of the time on this river, I employ a nymphing technique. I typically use an indicator rig with three flies. I start with a stonefly imitation, size 8 to 10, then, 12 to 14 inches below that, I tie on a size 14 Beadhead Prince Nymph, and for the last fly I use a size 18 Zebra Midge. Other nymphs that work well include Bird’s Nests, Copper Johns, and Green Beaded Pulsating Caddises.
I use the three different types of nymphs to try to figure out what the fish are feeding on, as well as to vary the depth of the flies. Many different rigging systems are usable, but I believe the simplest method, and the one with the least chance of tangling, is to tie the three flies in tandem, each to the bend of the preceding fly’s hook. If I need added weight, I put split shot about fourteen inches above the first and largest fly.
Casting three flies along with split shot can be awkward, to say the least, so I use what I call a “U” cast. I start a backswing from the outside, swing the rig out in one line behind me, and then follow through with a forward cast and extremely open loop on the inside, close to my body. I also aim high so that the flies enter the water before the indicator does, allowing the flies to drop to the bottom faster. I routinely catch fish on each of the three flies.
Sometimes it pays to take the indicator off and do some short line and high-stick nymphing with this same three-fly rig.
Prospects
Last year, the summer of 2016, was a difficult one for fishing on the North Fork. River flows as regulated by PG&E remained high all summer. At 390 cubic feet per second or below, the river fishes well, but last summer saw consistent flows in the 450-to-500 cfs range. I was able to catch many fish, including in the two-to-three-pound range, but both wading and fishing were extremely challenging, especially for novice and intermediate clients whom I was guiding. Even with high flows, however, the canyon section of the North Fork of the Feather River is still a fine river worth exploring. Be prepared for a challenge and also for hooking some beautiful, hard-fighting wild rainbows.
In early 2017, the river experienced extremely high flows over the course of the winter, which has made access to the river much easier until the berry bushes grow back. The easier access makes this an ideal time to fish the river, especially when the flows are in the 400 cfs range. Author’s note: Fly-fishing guide Andrew Harris and his book, Plumas National Forest Trout Fishing Guide, have provided me with great fishing tips for this river.
Key Tributaries of the North Fork
Two main tributaries to the North Fork are worth mentioning. The first is Yellow Creek, which feeds the river on the north side of Highway 70 at Belden. This creek is known in California for the large brown trout that once could be found at its headwaters in Humbug Valley, which can be accessed from Highway 89 along the west side of Lake Almanor. Numerous articles have been written about this spring-fed creek, which reminds me of a miniature Hat Creek. It flows through a remote, peaceful, and beautiful meadow where there is a campground. I made a trip there in October 2015 and was pleasantly surprised by having the creek all to myself. While I wasn’t able to locate any large browns, and the fishing was not outstanding, I did catch a few and was able to do some sight fishing along the meandering stream, which was a wonderful experience. After it meanders through the meadow, Yellow Creek flows south through a deep canyon, which is difficult to access. A dirt road high above the canyon follows the stream. From this road, it could be worth a hike down to the creek for those willing to pay the price. I have a hunch that those large browns may be found down there, where few are willing to put the effort in to reach them.
Yellow Creek becomes easily accessible once again where it meets the North Fork in the town of Belden on Highway 70. This location is famous among hikers, since the Pacific Crest Trail crosses the highway and river at this point. Here hikers pick up their packages after coming down one of the steepest parts of the entire 2,650-mile trail from Mexico to Canada. The creek has a trail that follows it for a few miles upstream on its west bank. There is also a rest stop here, and it is a wonderful place to pick blackberries in the summer. I have caught numerous small wild rainbows in the 6-to-10-inch range while working the river up from its confluence with the North Fork. It is a beautiful small stream that will test your skills as you cast among downed logs and overhanging trees.
The other main tributary is the North Fork of the Feather itself above its confluence with the East Branch of the North Fork. This is a more popular fishing destination, with planted rainbows along Caribou Road, which follows the river up to the Belden Forebay. A cafe, grocery store, and small RV park are located where the river meets Highway 70. A short drive upstream leads to two campgrounds that are popular with families and anglers during the summer.
There are other small creeks that feed the North Fork along Highway 70 that all look very fishy. I have explored Grizzly Creek and found it enchanting, with emerald green water and many small wild rainbows willing to take a fly. Be ready to do some swimming if you head up this tributary, though, because its canyon is steep and narrow, with smooth rocks on both sides.
— Mike Pease
