Autumn in the eastern Sierra is a special time for the fly fisher. As the effects of summer heat begin to wear off, cooling water temperatures bring increased levels of dissolved oxygen, and the fish perk up. Trout fan out throughout the streams, becoming more active as they prepare for the coming winter. Autumn also is when brown and brook trout spawn, as do a special variety of rainbows.
Fishing backcountry lakes and streams is glorious in the fall. The days are often warm and crystal clear, the trails are less crowded and less dusty, and the fish are fueling up for the winter. Though conditions can vary widely from year to year, in larger drainage basins, especially those with multiple lakes, there can still be enough flow to make angling feasible. As the season progresses, however, the approach of winter makes itself felt in the high country, and attention turns toward more accessible waters at lower elevations, such as the upper Owens River, Hot Creek, and the East Walker River.
The Backcountry
Backcountry lakes can be rewarding destinations in the fall. The trout have had all summer to feed and grow and now are eager to fatten up in anticipation of the coming winter. The cooler days bring a mixing of the water column, and fish distribution evens out, with trout moving closer to shore for longer periods of the day. The spawning season brings spawning fish to the inlet and outlet areas of backcountry lakes, and their need for increased food consumption can trigger aggressive behavior. But at the same time, the change of seasons brings a reduction in the variety of the food sources available to trout in both backcountry lakes and streams. That simplifies things when choosing what flies to carry.
Matching the hatch is less important, especially up high, and I find that attractor patterns seem to be more productive at this time of year. I carry Royal Wulffs, Sierra Bright Dots, and Humpies. Early in the fall, there can still be populations of terrestrials, particularly grasshoppers, so I make sure I include these patterns, as well as ant imitations. Autumn in the backcountry really plays into my bias toward dry-fly fishing, but you can also have success with small generic nymph and beadhead patterns, particularly in any remaining deep pools and runs.
If you’re into hatch matching, though, you actually need to imitate only six food sources to cover the basic autumn menu: Blue-Winged Olives, Callibaetis mayflies, the October Caddis, the Black Caddis or Grannom, chironomids, and scuds. I generally fish all the patterns listed below in sizes 16 and 18, occasionally 20, and sometimes a caddis pattern in size 14. Blue-Winged Olives are a major food source for backcountry trout beginning in mid-September and running through November. Hatches take place in the midmorning and late afternoon and are particularly strong on overcast days. They are small insects, definitely not larger than a 16 and mostly size 18 and below. They make up for their size by profuse numbers, but the hatch can be frustrating. I often find myself fishing dry-fly adult imitations to rising fish without success. The answer is to switch to an emerger pattern. It is difficult for the emerging insect to break through surface film, and they are sitting ducks for a long period of time. For dry flies, I carry a parachute BWO pattern, a parachute version of the Adams, BWO Sparkle Duns, a BWO spinner pattern, and, for emergers, the BWO Quigley Cripple and the Brooks Sprout Baetis. For BWO nymphs, I carry Pheasant Tail Nymphs, size 18 or smaller. These flies are particularly effective when fished along vegetated and undercut banks.
The Callibaetis is prevalent in September, declining through October. This significant stillwater food source can be successfully imitated with a Pheasant Tail Nymph, Quigley Cripples, Sparkle Duns and spinner patterns. Activity can be strong in the early morning.
The aptly named October Caddis becomes a primary food source during its namesake month and on into November. It is imitated by Bird’s Nest Nymphs, Emergent Sparkle Pupa, and an orange Stimulator. Another caddis form, the Black Caddis, comes into play during the months of September, October, and on into November. The E/C Caddis and X-Caddis in olive, as well as the CDC and Elk work for adult imitations, and Parachute Caddis Emergers and Partridge Caddis Emergers cover the emergent stage of the insect. The E/C Caddis is particularly effective when fished right at the end of a caddis hatch. The nymph imitation is a Bird’s Nest or Emergent Sparkle Pupa. To imitate a bubble-encased caddis rising to the surface, Ralph Cutter suggests fishing a Bird’s Nest treated with fly desiccant powder and trailing behind a small weight.
Chironomids are present in backcountry lakes throughout the fall, particularly in October. I carry Zebra Nymphs, WD-40s, Black Gnats, and a variety of small emergers. Lastly, scuds also can play an important role in September fishing; generic patterns tend to work fine. Keep your backcountry gear simple. I prefer a 3-weight or 4-weight rod equipped with a longer and lighter leader than usual to avoid spooking trout. The rest of my gear fits onto a neck lanyard. I make small, light fly boxes by gluing foam into empty Altoids tins. Two or three of these will hold enough flies for a day of backcountry fishing and are light and easy to carry. Add to that a small day pack with water, lunch, extra clothing, and rain gear. There can still be some troublesome insects about, so make sure you carry repellent. You need sunscreen and lip protection, too. Even though the heat of summer is past, hydration remains an issue in the fall due to altitude and the effects of wind and cold, so at minimum, a water bottle or a purification system is a necessity.
Once at the stream, take time to plan your approach and execute it with a minimum of commotion and visible presence. Autumn waters are low and clear, which means the fish are skittish. The angle of the sun is lower, casting longer shadows across the water, and fish are more easily put down by careless motions by the angler. I see more large trout in the fall, because I spook them. You want to fish low and slow, with deliberate movement and minimal casting activity. Rest the water after moving into position and between casts. You will be using longer and finer leaders, so cast only an amount of line that you can effectively control in each presentation. I find myself doing a lot of downstream drifting on backcountry streams in the fall to keep my casts as short as I can. On both lakes and streams, try to work through the water in such a way that you disturb as small a section of water as possible. The takes in the fall seem to be more subtle, and I find I need to be a bit more deliberate in attempting to set the hook.
The Big Three
Snowfall in the eastern Sierra can begin at the higher elevations as early as late August. As snow shuts down the backcountry, eastern Sierra anglers flock to three well-known locations: the upper Owens River, Hot Creek, and the East Walker River. All will have been heavily pounded throughout the summer, but are still fine fall fisheries. The upper Owens carries the added attraction of spawning brown trout and a species of fall spawning rainbows that run upstream from Lake Crowley. Check with local fly shops or guide services to find out when the fish are moving and where they are located in the river. Also, remember to exercise caution if you are wading the stream to avoid damaging spawning beds. Fish on redds should be left alone. There are numerous access points to the Owens between Lake Crowley and the private ranches upstream. Advice can be obtained at local shops. These are also good places to get information on the special regulations that apply to the river.
You can fish the Owens in the fall with dries, but this is a time for subsurface fishing, even for a dry-fly guy like me. I carry an assortment of beadhead nymphs in sizes from 14 through 20. A good selection could include Prince, Pheasant Tail, and Gold-Ribbed Hare’s Ear Nymphs and Zebra and Tiger Midges. Many people fish these subsurface patterns in a flashback tie. A short leader will allow better control of the fly. There are large fish in the upper Owens, so use 3X or 4X tippet. Rig up with some sort of strike indicator, whether a floating indicator, a dropper dry fly such as a Stimulator, or a colored section at the head of the leader. Serious concentration is required to pick up the takes of the fish — there are more than you realize. Do not be afraid to react to anything you might think is a take. Another productive approach is to strip streamers through the deep holes and undercut banks of the river. Try using Woolly Buggers, Hornbergs, and Goblins. These same patterns will serve you well throughout the area, including on Hot Creek and the East Walker River.
I always try to fish Hot Creek at least once a week beginning in October and often set aside a visit to it and a bottle of nice wine for the last trip of the season. This time of year, conditions at Hot Creek can be tricky, though. Beginning in midsummer, increased temperatures and decreasing flows cause algae growth. This builds up and can become problematic, because it decreases the open-water targets to areas of literally inches, and the algae often fouls the fly. The weeds persist until winter. There is compensation in that the fish go back to more energetic feeding due to reduced fall temperatures and the influence of the spawn on resident brown trout. Autumn brings prolific hatches of caddisflies, particularly in the mornings after 10 or so. Their appearance can create a spectacle of feeding fish. There are also significant Baetis hatches, which can occur in the morning and more often in mid to late afternoon
The third major destination is the East Fork of the Walker River. Cooler water temperatures and a decrease in downstream water demand brings the fishing conditions back into line after the summer heat. The river’s brown trout are also engaged in spawning behavior in the fall. Anglers explore the river using the same streamer patterns listed for the Owens, as well as by probing the deeper reaches with small nymphs fished using a short-line technique.
Water
All of the streams in the eastern Sierra have the potential to provide good fall fishing. However, the seasonal availability of water and changing flow conditions are the major factors in assessing that potential and can vary greatly from year to year. You cannot simply assume that because you enjoyed a good day somewhere two years ago, this will repeat itself. In years with abundant water, almost any stream can continue to provide good fishing through the fall. However, in normal or below-normal years, low water can make some East Side fishing problematic, at best. The Middle Fork of the San Joaquin River and the West Fork of the Walker River are especially vulnerable to declining flows, beginning in September.
However, flows are also determined by factors other than the seasonal level of the snowpack; water agreements, dam maintenance projects, and management of reservoirs for projected precipitation in the next water year all play into determining flow levels. For that reason, Rush Creek or Bishop Creek actually can experience flows higher than had been present in the summer. Visit a local fly shop or an online stream-flow website such as one of the Los Angeles Department of Water and Power real-time sites for helpful information before you set out for a potential location.
The fall’s dramatic reduction in fishing traffic and pressure opens up sections of water you might have avoided in summer. For example, land management agencies begin to shut down facilities such as campgrounds as the fall progresses, and I have several streams that I visit in the fall a couple of weeks after the campgrounds close up. The uptick in fish activity combined with the disappearance of people creates the opportunity for unexpectedly good angling.
Be Prepared
Fall weather in the eastern Sierra is wildly variable. Cold mornings can be followed by unexpectedly warm afternoons, and throughout the fall it can be clear and sunny on Monday, snowing on Tuesday afternoon and Wednesday, and back to sunny and warm Thursday. If you plan to visit, make sure you are prepared to be safe and comfortable. You will need several layers and storm gear.
The fall is also hunting season. If hunting is going on where you plan to fish, consider wearing red or orange to make yourself more clearly visible. Also, have your vehicle ready for winter conditions, carry tire chains, and stock it with the necessary snow gear, including warm clothing, food, and water. One other caution: hundreds of people descend on the area to take in the fall colors, and distracted drivers pose a hazard anywhere the trees have turned. People drive at minimal speeds, pay no attention to traffic, and will stop in the middle of the road to jump out and begin to take pictures, so be alert.
But the scenery isn’t the only glory of an eastern Sierra fall. When the conditions are right, both the backcountry lakes and streams and the more popular lower-elevation angling destinations come to life after the dog days of summer. Fishing is reduced to its essentials in the backcountry, spawning fish enter the streams, and the area offers fly fishers one grand finale before winter reduces us all to dreaming by the fire.
