California offers so many opportunities for angling that there is no way one can fish them all in a lifetime. Instead, we concentrate on waters that appeal to us, learning their idiosyncrasies, the most productive times of the year to visit, and their hatches. Lake Davis is such a place for me. I’ve put in hundreds of days of angling, guiding, and observing there and have come to understand its rhythms and just how conditions can change with high and low water levels, weed growth, and the effects of angling pressure.
However, I don’t believe that any fly angler or guide has all the answers about a particular fishery or fly pattern. So when I was asked to write about Lake Davis, I came to the conclusion that I should just write from my own perspective on this well-known fishery, giving my approach and how it can help fly anglers new to this beautiful and productive Sierra classic.
History
Long before Lake Davis was impounded in 1967, it was a vast meadow with Big Grizzly Creek flowing along the east side and eventually entering the Middle Fork of the Feather River upstream of the town of Portola. Native Americans had camps overlooking the meadow, where they hunted the immense deer herds and other wildlife. At one site, archeologists from the U.S. Forest Service have discovered many artifacts, including basalt tools, arrowheads, spear points, and kitchens complete with ovens. While hiking around the lake, I still find such artifacts from time to time. The responsible thing to do is to take only pictures and bury the artifacts out of respect for those who came before.
The Grizzly Valley Dam is part of the State Water Project and was planned, designed, constructed, and currently operated and managed by the California Department of Water Resources (DWR). Both Lake Davis and Frenchman’s Reservoir ship water down to Lake Oroville for storage by way of the Middle Fork of the Feather River. Little did the DWR know that in building Lake Davis they were also creating perfect habitat for trout and one of the biggest stillwater biomasses in the West: weed beds grew to epic proportions and ignited profuse aquatic insect hatches, which in turn gave its rainbows a cornucopia of food from which to choose.
Through the early years, many different species of fish were planted in the lake, including rainbow, cutbow, and brown trout, bass, and coho and king salmon. Some of these fish did not fare well, and management of the lake changed direction and was simplified. One special species of trout excelled at Lake Davis — the Eagle Lake rainbow. The Eagle Lake rainbows survived the harsh winter conditions and adapted quite well to the available food sources, achieving impressive growth rates of four to six inches per year. Lake Davis currently has Eagle Lake rainbows, brown bullhead catfish, and pumpkin seeds. In the last few years, some brown trout and smallmouth bass have been caught by anglers. Word on the street is they were planted by other anglers, not by the California Department of Fish and Wildlife. This lake has a history of such transplants.
In the mid-1990s, someone illegally introduced northern pike into Lake Davis. Some say this man wanted to create a pike fishery and cash in on being the first guide to offer trips to catch pike. Others say it was a rebellious act to express his distaste for the
federal government. Fearing that the pike would travel down the Feather River system and eventually reach the California Delta, wreaking havoc on the salmon and steelhead runs, the Department of Fish and Wildlife’s predecessor, the Department of Fish and Game, treated the lake with rotenone in the fall of 1997. The day before the first treatment, my fly-fishing buddies and I harvested five rainbows each that ranged from four to six pounds — slabs with girths so big you couldn’t put your hand around them. The treatment was a failure — it did not eliminate the pike and was a public-relations disaster for the department.
Years went by as the DFG tried many different approaches to eradicating the pike, from gill netting to electroshocking, but once again, the pike took over the lake, affecting both the trout population and the experience of visiting anglers. During the lake’s famed damselfly hatch, when trout normally would graze like cattle, I witnessed rainbows darting from nymph to nymph, nervously eating and then disappearing into the weeds. The fish were afraid of suddenly being ambushed by a pike.
The DFG treated the lake again in 2007, this time using more rotenone and treating all of the feeder creeks far upstream from the lake. When rotenone is used, it kills almost everything, including aquatic insects, and the lake’s ecosystem has had to rebuild itself again. Since then, however, there has been no sign of the destructive water wolf. Millions of dollars were spent at Lake Davis because of one individual transporting live fish from one body of water to another, and millions more were lost because of the decline of tourism on which the economy of eastern Plumas County relies.
Current Status
Today’s lake is on the rebound and getting better every season, with increased populations of aquatic insects, and the size and weight of the trout are the proof of this. Although the drought of the last four years left many of the fertile flats where the rainbows liked to feed high and dry, this winter has seen a nearly normal snowpack at the lake, and as I write this, the water level has increased by 30 percent. More water equals higher populations of aquatic insects, and bigger trout. The rotenone treatments also impaired the freshwater snail population, a very important food source for the fish and for waterfowl. The snails are making a slow comeback, as small piles of empty shells on the shoreline prove.
Where one food source diminishes, however, another sometimes can take its place. To the surprise of the local fly-fishing community, Hexagenia mayflies are becoming a significant hatch at Lake Davis. In June 2012, a friend and I were scouting terrain near Fairview Point for a Lake Davis outing when hundreds of California gulls began swooping down to the water’s surface and feeding. In all my years at the lake, I never had witnessed so many birds in one area. At first I thought there must be one heck of a Blood Midge hatch to attract their attention, but something else was going on. Riding toward the shore in the current was a large yellow insect with a sailboat wing. I was in disbelief until I held it in my hand for a positive identification: a Hexagenia mayfly in all its glory.
I had received a report from a fly angler who said he may have seen the Hexes a year before that, but was unable to catch one, but I had blown that off as a misidentification. Many have told me that the Hexes have been at the lake for years, but nobody in my tight group of fishing colleagues and others in the industry, folks who spend countless numbers of days on the lake, had seen so much as a shuck or a spent spinner. An entomologist from the DFW who specializes in researching Lake Davis confirmed this was a new phenomenon. He speculated that the Hexes could have blown in from Lake Almanor, Mountain Meadows Reservoir, or Antelope Lake. Wherever they came from, it’s safe to say that they are now permanent residents of the lake, and Lake Davis’s mud and clay bottom provides the perfect habitat for the burrowing nymph to thrive.
Seasons and Approaches
Lake Davis sits at an elevation of 5,885 feet, and it ices over in early December, on average, with ice-out occurring anywhere from the beginning of March to the end of April. Ice-out can bring fair-to-good fishing, depending on water temperatures.
A few weeks after ice-out, the seasonal creeks on the east shore start to trickle from the spring snowmelt. Some have enough water to support the rainbows swimming up them, attempting to spawn. The trout will gather in large numbers in the coves where the creeks enter the lake. Areas such as Grasshopper Cove, Coot Bay, and Mallard Cove are known for the large schools of spawners they attract at this time. It’s legal to fish for them, but doing so is an ethical issue for many, and most fly anglers let them do their spawning without molesting them.
All tributaries of Lake Davis are closed from November 15 to the Saturday proceeding Memorial Day. Honker Cove is permanently closed to fishing all year. Snow Creek enters there and is one of the major spawning areas at the lake. If you’re at the lake during the spawn, keep a watchful eye out for poachers who net the fish in the creeks. It’s best not to approach poachers, so call the DFW’s 1-800-CALTIP number and make a report.
If you plan to fish for early season rainbows, a floating line is best when angling from shore, though areas with deeper water may warrant a clear camo intermediate line. Effective fly patterns during this time include brightly colored Wiggle Tails in red and orange and also the classic colors of black, root beer, and olive. Midge patterns work exceptionally well, including big Blood Midge pupae, size 10 to 12, and Zebra Midges, size 16 to 18. Pheasant Tail and Damselfly Nymphs are must-haves for your Lake Davis box during the entire year and are also top producers in the early part of the season. In the colder water, slower retrieves are often the most effective.
After the spawn, the rainbows are tired, beat up, and not feeding as heavily. This can last for two to three weeks. Aquatic insect hatches start to increase with the warming water, with Blood Midges, several different chironomids, Callibaetis mayflies, and damselfly nymphs becoming active. Toward the end of May, damselfly nymphs start their yearly migration from the deep weed beds and swim toward the shore or other structure, where they hatch into adults. The hatch continues through June into early July. The west and northwest side of Lake Davis offers the best areas for fishing the damselfly hatch, because of the higher concentrations of weeds. You’ll have higher catch rates during the early part of the hatch, before the crowds descend upon the lake and the fish wise up to artificial flies. It’s nearly impossible for a damselfly imitation to match the swimming motion of a natural, but flies that have marabou incorporated into their design produce the best, due to the flowing movement of the material.
Damselflies have only one defense when it comes to predators, and that is the ability to camouflage themselves by changing colors to match their immediate environment. The weed beds where they live can be brown, brown-olive, olive, and tan. Early in the hatch, the weeds are darker, and as more sunlight penetrates the surface and the weed beds grow toward the surface, they become lighter in color. So find a live damselfly nymph in the area you are fishing and match the color and size as closely as you can. Most commercial damselfly nymph patterns are too big and bulky. Choose a fly that is slender, the right size, has movement, and is weighted only by a 2X-heavy hook. You want your damselfly pattern to swim in the top two feet of the water column during the migrating hatch. Heavy damselfly nymphs sink too quickly and fall below the strike zone.
In my opinion, June is the best month to fish the lake and the most comfortable for the visiting fly angler. A typical day during this time would include fishing the Blood Midge hatch in the morning, then switching to damselfly nymphs in anticipation of the migration. Once the damselflies are done by early afternoon, a fly angler can switch to a deep-water indicator rig and hang chironomids near the first ledge of deeper water, 10 to 18 feet down. A breakaway indicator is the best choice for this scenario, because with it, you can retrieve your line and leader far enough to net your catch more easily. After a siesta and dinner, the last hour of light brings the awaited Hexagenia mayfly to the surface, where trout, geese, California gulls, and bats all dine away on them into the night.
The best location for the Hex hatch changes every year. Last year, the southern part of the lake had the most adults, but the year before that, it was the north section of the lake. Fishing a Hex nymph is not as effective as, say, at Lake Almanor or Butt Valley Reservoir. I think this is due to the fact that the trout gorge themselves all day long and are full in the late afternoon, but once the magic hour of last light comes, they once again feed vigorously. The best pattern by far imitates an emerging Hex adult. The abdomen hangs below the surface with a trailing shuck, and the head and thorax ride flush on the surface. You can use a heavier tippet, from 2X to 3X, during the low-light conditions of dusk. For those fly anglers who have never fished a Hex hatch, it’s a must-do. Just observing the phenomenon and watching the fish slurp away is quite fascinating.
The lake’s surface water reaches the low 70s through much of July and August. Rainbows retreat to deeper water next to weed beds or near cold springs that enter the lake. It’s possible to catch rainbows during this period, but in the warm water, most trout will go belly-up once released after a long fight, so it’s most likely a catch-and-keep situation. The responsible fly angler will go elsewhere until the autumn, when water temperatures drop.
By the time September approaches, mornings are noticeably colder, and the length of daylight is shorter. With cooling water temperatures, the rainbows become active again in shallower water. Two key hatches recommence in early fall, Blood Midges and Callibaetis mayflies. For both of these aquatic insects, this is their last brood of the season, and the adults and nymphs are smaller than the previous broods of the spring and summer. Blood Midges will be size 14, and Callibaetis mayflies size 16. There can be some great dry-fly fishing in September, and sometimes conditions allow the walk-and-wade angler to sight-fish for rainbows cruising the shoreline. For the top-water game, a Blood Midge emerger and a Parachute Adams are really all that is needed when targeting rising fish. When the lake is dead calm and the fish are leery, a longer leader of 12 to 14 feet can make all the difference when presenting dry flies. You must lead a cruising fish by at least three feet, placing the fly directly in its path. Fishing these two important hatches subsurface is best in the morning, before the bugs start to emerge. Depending on the level at which that the fish are holding, I start with an indicator rig with a Blood Midge pupa on top, trailing a Flashback Pheasant Tail Nymph 24 inches below. As the hatch progresses, I remove the indicator and slowly strip my flies under the surface, concentrating on the upper water column from the surface to three feet down.
In October, as water temperatures continue to drop, the trout feel the winter season coming and begin feeding aggressively in the shallows to fatten up for their lengthy-time under the ice. Both fishing from the bank and out of a personal watercraft can be effective during the autumn. The fish are not picky, heavier tippets can be used down to 2X, and an angler can expect multiple takes from the same fish as it chases down the fly. My three favorite flies for the fall are the burnt-orange Wiggle Tail, the Sheep Creek Special, and Jay Fair’s Stripping Fly in brown with copper flash. Retrieves should be a slow hand crawl with pauses. My friends and I have caught our largest numbers of fish during October, especially when the trout populations were higher after the stocking schedule was increased following the rotenone treatments.
However, the past two fall seasons have been busts at Lake Davis. With low water levels, the productive flats and shoals on the west and north ends were high and dry, and catch rates mirrored low trout populations. Out of character, the rainbows chose the deeper water on the east shore, feeding on Daphnia, commonly known as tiny water fleas. When the trout key in on this food source, it can be a daunting task to catch them. One way to approach this is to present a fly imitating Daphnia clusters some 15 to 25 feet below a breakaway indicator. A Daphnia cluster fly is tied with a small, airy ball of Antron or similar material, with small dots of green puff paint within it. Another tactic is to use fast-sinking lines with a large Woolly Bugger in olive, brown, or black, stripping at varying speeds and with different retrieves until you find a combination that works.
Watercraft
Fly anglers with the overall highest catch rates on average at Lake Davis are those who use personal watercraft, be it a float tube, a pontoon boat, or a small pram. I highly recommend one of the newer float tubes that have a rockered stern. They are highly maneuverable, and best of all, they are light in weight. With a personal watercraft, your fly is in the water for longer periods of time, and most importantly, you’re covering water. And a lightweight float tube makes it easy to relocate in some places. For example, the west and north sides of Lake Davis have long peninsulas that stretch from the shoreline out into the lake, usually pointing due east. If the fishing is slow on the south side of a peninsula, walking your lightweight float tube across to the north side gives you a whole new area to explore.
Finding active schools of feeding fish is the first part to solving the riddle of catching trout in still waters. A personal watercraft simplifies this, because an angler can fish both deep water and the shallows and get out and fish the shoreline afoot for cruisers. As a guide, I use a powerboat so I can bring extra gear and have a comfortable ride for my guests. It also allows me to change locations in a very short time. But the cost of a powerboat, maintenance, and trailering makes this not a viable option for many. A personal watercraft keeps things simple.
Equipment for Lake Davis
The specifics of your fishing equipment for Western still waters such as Lake Davis come down to personal preference. Some of my friends still use their old Hardy reels from the 1970s and a favorite rod that has been to hell and back with them through good times and bad. Confidence is everything when it comes to fly fishing, and rods and reels from decades past can be like an old friend who’s got your back. For Lake Davis, 5-weight to 7-weight rods are best. I prefer a 7-weight, because when the wind blows or when I hook a big fish, I’m in complete control. I have found that rods with softer tips or those with medium-fast actions protect tippets and knots when an aggressive rainbow takes a fly, especially during the damselfly hatch. I also like to have three designated rods ready to go: one with a floating line and a nymphing setup for shallow water, an indicator rod, and a rod with a sink-tip or an intermediate line.
Reels are an important component when fishing still waters. Generally, the fish are bigger, and the only way to slow down a hot run is with an effective drag system. When fighting fish around weed beds, a good reel can slow down your catch before they try to break you off by entangling themselves in the weeds. I’ve been impressed by some of the very affordable new reels on the market lately — they have drag systems that actually work. Whatever reel you choose, you’ll want to buy multiple reels or spools for the variety of lines you’ll need to cover the entire water column, from top to bottom.
I use five different lines at Lake Davis in order to present flies at different depths. I use a weight-forward floating line for shallow-water indicator fishing and when fish are suspended in the upper water column during the early spring or late fall. I use this line about 60 percent of the time. During the damselfly hatch or when Callibaetis nymphs congregate just below the surface before hatching, I’ll
fish a hover line that sinks to only about 2 feet below the surface and stays there. A 6-foot ghost sink-tip is a unique line that can cover many depths down to six feet, but has a floating section that can alert the angler when a strike happens. Next is a clear camo intermediate, which can be fished at many depths, from 3 to 8 feet down, and is a perfect line for fishing out of a float tube or pontoon boat. Finally, to present flies from 15 to 25 feet down, I use a 30-foot-long express sink-tip line with a sink rate of about six inches a second, integrated with a floating running line. I rarely use this line at Lake Davis, but there have been times when I wish I’d had it when I didn’t. This is the line that is so popular for stripping flies off the dropoff at Pyramid Lake. Are all these lines necessary? It depends on what game you want to play and what degree of success you desire.
When fishing out of a personal watercraft with a clear camo intermediate line, I use 6 feet of straight fluorocarbon tippet material down to 3X or 4X. By adjusting the speed at which you fin or paddle and allowing the line to sink, you can target different depths. When targeting actively feeding fish from a watercraft, fan casts 360 degrees around you and narrow down the sweet spot of productivity. Never leave fish to find fish.
When fishing from the shoreline and targeting shallow water from one to four feet deep with a weight-forward floating line, you need a longer leader to keep the fly line away from wary trout. Many companies offer leaders in long lengths, or you can make your own by attaching a length of 2 to 4 feet of .024-inch butt material to your fly line with a Perfection Loop and adding a 9-foot leader tapered to 3X or 4X with a Double Surgeon’s Knot. The stiff butt section allows the longer leader to turn over perfectly and deliver your fly with precision and accuracy.
When using a weight-forward floating line and long leader to make vertical presentations with a strike indicator, a good tactic to use is start your presentation about a foot off the bottom in the early morning and, as the hatch gains momentum, fish farther off the bottom, on up to the middle and top of water column, replicating the natural movement of ascending aquatic insects. A rule of thumb at Lake Davis is that your flies should be suspended just above the tops of the weeds, and I have found that in 8 to 12 feet of water, placing your top fly 3 feet down and your second fly 5 feet down will usually bring success.
When equipping yourself for fishing a lake such as Davis, consider investing in a fish finder. Affordable electronics have been available for use with personal watercraft for quite some time, and they can locate drop-offs, bottom structure, weed beds, and submerged creek channels. Electronics keep getting better every year. If you’re serious about fishing still waters, this is a tool you must have in your arsenal. Using electronics can reveal at what level the fish are feeding and eliminates much of the guesswork regarding the distance needed between the indicator to the fly.
Finally, don’t forget to bring polarized sunglasses, waders and wading boots, warm clothing, gloves, a small headlamp, sunscreen, and water.
Flies for Lake Davis
I have broken down the fly list I use for Lake Davis into two categories: attractor flies and natural imitations. All of these patterns have a proven track record at the lake, though I highly suggest using your own high-confidence flies or, if you tie flies, tweaking the suggested patterns to your liking.
Attractor flies. Jay Fair Wiggle Tails, size 10 to 16 (black, f iery brown, root beer, olive, and burnt orange); Woolly Buggers, size 8 to 14 (black, fiery brown, root beer, olive, and burnt orange); Jay Fair Stripping Flies, size 8 to 14 (black, fiery brown, root beer, olive, and burnt orange); Sheep Creek Specials, size 12 to 16 (peacock, brown); Mahalo Nymphs, size 12 to 14 (red, purple, black); Red Headed Stepchild Nymphs, size 12 to 16.
Aquatic, terrestrial, crustacean, and mollusk imitations. Damselfly Nymphs, size 10 to 12 (cocoa, dark olive, olive-brown, olive, tan); Albino Winos, size 10 to 14; Blood Midge Emergers, size 12 to 14 (burnt orange, rust); Zebra Midges, size 16 to 18; Snocones, size 10 to 18 (black, brown, red, olive); Flashback Pheasant Tail Nymphs, size 12 to 16; Gold Ribbed Hare’s Ear Nymphs, size 12 to 16; Parachute Adamses, size 14 to 16; Cutter’s E/C Caddises, size 12 to 16 (amber, gray, cream, cocoa); Loco Ants, size 10 to 14; Club Sandwich Hoppers (tan/brown, gray/yellow); Backswimmers, size 12 to 16 (amber/olive, burnt yellow, black); leech imitations, size 8 to 14 (black, brown, olive); crayfish imitations, size 8 to 12 (burnt orange/brown) John Barr Scuds, size 14 to 16 (brown, olive, tan); Jay Fair Simple Snails, size 12 to 16 (brown, olive).
Adding to Your Enjoyment
More than a great trout fishery, Lake Davis is absolutely beautiful in every way. There is so much more to do at the lake than just presenting flies. A journey to secluded coves in a kayak can bring you closer to amazing waterfowl and to animals roaming the shores. Take a springtime hike into the meadows on the western shore for some amazing wildflower displays, or embark on a bike ride on the single-track loop around the lake. Lake Davis offers the highest appreciation for all things great and small of the natural world.
If You Go…
Lake Davis is located north of the town of Portola in western Plumas County. It is open all year. Anglers can fish from shore (wading) and by watercraft. Productive areas including Eagle Point, Jenkins Point, Cow Creek, Mosquito Slough, Fairview Point, Mallard Cove, and Coot Bay. Boat ramps are located at Honker Cove (main), Camp 5, and Lighting Tree.
Basic supplies are available at the lake at the J&J Grizzly Store, (530) 8320270, and in the town of Portola. Lodging is available at the Lake Davis Resort, (530) 832-1060; the Pullman House Inn, (530) 832-0107; and the Sleepy Pines Motel, (530) 832-4291. For camping information, contact the U.S. Forest Service’s Beckwourth Station, (530) 836-2575.
For angling information, contact the J&J Grizzly Store, (530) 832-0270; Baiocchi’s Troutfitters, http://www.baiocchistroutfitters.com, (530) 228-0487; and the Reno Fly Shop, (775) 323-3474.
Guides: Rob Anderson, (775) 742-1754, http://www.renoflyfishingoutfitters. com; Bill Forward, (530) 836-0206, http://www.forward-bound.com; Truckee River Outfitters (775) 224-5918, http://www.truckeeriveroutfitters.com and on Facebook; Jon Baiocchi, (530) 228-0487, http://www.baiocchistroutfitters.com.
Books and maps: Fly Fishing California Still Waters, by Bill Sunderland. Stream Map USA for the iPhone, http://www.StreamMapUSA.com; and the U.S. Forest Service Plumas National Forest Map; DeLorme Northern California Atlas and Gazetteer.
— Jon Baiocchi