The Foraging Angler: The Delta

Illustrations by Ben Engle

If you want to talk about a joint that would be my perfect eatery, this place is it. It’s on the river—not beside it, not overlooking it; it’s literally on the river. It’s easily accessible, has a large parking lot, is in a great location, has excellent staff, and, above all, the food is fantastic.

Kirsten and I dined at Crawdad’s with our friend and local Delta guide Toby Uppinghouse. I asked Toby for his advice on the best places to eat. Without hesitation, he said, “Crawdads!” Kirsten and I planned to meet him on our way to Morro Bay. 

Kirsten and I arrived first and checked out the place. It is huge and features an interior sitting area adjacent to a 25-yard bar stocked with every liquor imaginable. There is also an outdoor eating area on the river rail of the floating restaurant. On the upstream side of the restaurant is a huge dance floor and stage for bands. 

Kirsten and I sat at a table on the rail and ordered drinks, a Bloody Mary for me and iced tea for Kirsten. Toby arrived and was greeted instantly by our waiter, who obviously knew him well, taking his order for a vodka and soda with lime. I asked Toby what was good, and he simply gestured to the menu, indicating everything. 

I ordered the ceviche, and Kirsten chose the fish and chips. Toby only ordered a basket of fries, saying he’d had a big breakfast earlier and wasn’t hungry. When our food arrived, Toby was right—everything was delicious. My ceviche had shrimp and sea bass. It was ice-cold, with freshly chopped veggies and perfectly seasoned. It came with a large plate of fresh, hot tortilla chips that were lightly salted. I finished the huge bowl and all the chips. It was great. Kirsten said her fish and chips were excellent. She likes fish that is lightly battered, not heavy. She told me they were perfectly battered, cooked, and seasoned. Two thumbs up from her. The fries alone are excellent. They’re “batter-fried” fries—crisp and light. I sneaked some from Kirsten’s plate. 

On our way out, stuffed to our gills, Toby introduced us to Trevor Shults, the owner. He was lovely and enjoyed hearing that we had a great time. 

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WIMPY’S MARINA WALNUT GROVE – $$
14001 West Walnut Grove Road
Walnut Grove
209-794-2544

EDITOR’S NOTE: In the month since we published the Fall issue, it has been reported that Wimpy’s has been sold and is temporarily closed. We are sharing this review in hopes that it reopens soon!

Former owner Gerry Goodle, Jr. Owner Bradley J. Alexander

This location reminds me of Scotty’s on the Sacramento River in Chico. It’s situated directly on New Hope Landing, at the confluence of the Mokelumne River and Snodgrass Slough. 

Wimpy’s has an old bar with a sitting area inside. On the north side, there’s a large open area with an outdoor stage for bands. Kirsten’s and my favorite place to sit at Wimpy’s is the outdoor area beside the river. 

This place doesn’t have a fancy menu. They offer a one-page menu for breakfast, covering the usual favorites, and another for lunch/dinner, which includes everything from appetizers to the main course, featuring sandwiches and burgers.

I’ve never had breakfast at Wimpy’s, but I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s just as good as their lunch and dinner. It’s a toss-up as to what I usually order. The last couple of times I’ve gone, I’ve chosen something other than the burger, ordering the Riverbird sandwich instead. The Riverbird features a hearty portion of hot turkey breast on a sesame hamburger bun, topped with thick-cut bacon, Swiss cheese, and grilled thin-sliced red onions, all served with a slice of ice-cold tomato. Add the mayonnaise, mustard, and a generous helping of tator-tots, and I’m in heaven. I usually order a River Rat cocktail to wash it down. I can’t tell you what’s in their River Rat concoction, but it’s good!

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I pulled up to Foster’s one afternoon right when the staff was getting ready for the evening. They invited me in a few minutes before opening and made me the best Russian Vodka Mule I have had in years.

I was traveling through Rio Vista on my way to Stockton and stopped in late to get a bite. I haven’t been to the Bighorn in probably five to seven years, and I always wanted to have dinner there. I have had their breakfast and lunch multiple times, but never their dinner.

First, let me tell you that I haven’t had a bad meal at Foster’s. I’ve even had more than I should drink there in the past, but that’s a story for another time. The vibe of this joint is simply overwhelming with history. Not just the animal mounts, but the pictures hanging on the wall take me back. There is one that is of one of my mentor Denton Hill. Chris Wakeman and his staff feel just like I do, and the place is a destination you should add to your list.

Once I finished my mule, I ordered the special, chicken marsala, for dinner. I’m always looking for ideas for marsala and like to make pheasant marsala in the fall while I’m hunting.

The Bighorn’s marsala was to die for. Tender chicken with a light breading, fried and then baked with olive oil, capers, and fresh cilantro. The chicken was crisp on the outside and melted in your mouth. It was served with homemade linguine in the same sauce as the chicken, along with fresh vegetables on the side. 

I planned to return to Foster’s the next day for breakfast, but they were closed, so I headed home. I made a detour and had breakfast at Putah Creek Café instead!

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The first time I walked into this joint, maybe 10 years ago, there were four sheriff’s deputies having lunch. They were on boat patrol duty. With that ringing endorsement, I stayed for lunch. 

I sat outside on the deck and noticed that many of the patrons were local folks. It had a good vibe, and I was browsing both the food and drink menus. I asked my waitress what she recommended, and she immediately replied, “If you like burgers, ours are the best!” I ordered a Long Island iced tea and a double cheeseburger. The double cheeseburger was huge, cooked to medium-rare, with all the fresh, cold veggies. The colder the veggies, the fresher the burger. I hate hot veggies! The drink was great, and the burger was even better—pushing a nine on my burger scale.

I really like this place and have eaten here for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. I like that they have a big whiteboard with all their specials listed. Although it’s an old building sitting on the harbor, they’re dishing up some great food. 

The last few times Kirsten and I went there, we just stuck to cocktails and appetizers. We had a shrimp cocktail, crab cakes, and the rib-eye Oscar. Holy moly. The shrimp were jumbo-sized, and the homemade cocktail sauce was spot on, almost like a Marie Rose sauce. The crab cakes were crispy and hot, served with ice-cold homemade tartar sauce, and the rib-eye Oscar was fantastic, with crab and Béarnaise sauce drizzled over asparagus on the side. This joint is smokin’!

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BOB’S AT THE MARINA – $$
5639 Embarcadero Drive
Stockton
209-957-3279
Open Monday – Thursday 7 a.m. – 2 p.m.
Friday – Sunday, 7 a.m. – 6 p.m.Owners Josh and Nichole Abdon

Alright, folks, I’ve heard you. At least half a dozen folks have told me I needed to go to Bob’s. I want to tell y’all I have gone repeatedly. I’ve been there half a dozen times now— and I need to go more.

The first time I went, I ordered the Bob’s Giant Burger. Yes, it was terrific. A half-pound patty with Swiss cheese, cooked to perfection, served on a giant bun with all the ice-cold veggies piled on top. It comes with mustard and a homemade dressing. I asked one of the ladies who works there what the recipe for the “dressing” is. She just smiled and walked away. The fries are delicious, especially the batter-fried variety. I like them!

On other visits, I’ve expanded my palette beyond just burgers. One time, I ordered fish tacos featuring beer-battered cod on a corn tortilla, topped with Monterey Jack cheese, lettuce, and homemade salsa. They’re great—a little spicy but perfect with the hot, fried cod. I’ve also tried their tuna sandwich. It’s a winner. It’s not your typical tuna sandwich your mom used to make. This one is assembled on sourdough bread, filled with a generous portion of white albacore tuna salad, lettuce, tomato, and thinly sliced red onions—served with fries or a dinner salad for a healthier option. No matter what side you choose, the tuna is the star.

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ORWOOD RESORT BAR & GRILL – $$$
4451 Orwood Road
Brentwood
925-634-2550
Open Monday – Wednesday 8 a.m. – 2 p.m.
Thursday – Friday, 8 a.m. – 8 p.m.
Saturday, 7 a.m. – 8 p.m. and Sunday, 7 a.m. to 7 p.m.
Owned by the Caprio family (for 50 years!)

Orwood Resort Bar & Grill has been owned and operated by the Caprio family for more than 50 years. It is an institution in Brentwood, CA. 

John Sherman, a friend, writer, photographer, and fly-fishing representative for Sage Fly Rods and other companies, recommended this place to me. I asked John for a recommendation for a spot in the Delta, and he simply replied with, “Orwood is solid.” I also asked some friends who launch their boats from the resort, and I received all positive reviews—big hearts and thumbs-up emojis. I told Kirsten that I had to visit the place. Kirsten hasn’t had the time to check it out yet, but I have—three times so far. 

On multiple trips down to the East Bay, I gave myself a few extra hours to check this place out, and I keep going back. As soon as I walked up to Orwood, I knew it was special. You can literally sit on a barstool and watch folks take their boats in and out. It’s some great people watching. 

I have ordered a few items so far, mainly for breakfast. First, you need to try their Bloody Marys. They score a solid eight. A little hint of Worcestershire and horseradish. Very good. I’ve had the Hangover Burger, but my favorite is the “Yolk-ie” Taco. This is no ordinary taco. Made with a big, deep-fried tortilla, ground beef, beans, scrambled eggs, Monterey Jack cheese, tomatoes, green onions, with sour cream and homemade salsa on the side. I can’t wait to take Kirsten there!