The Foraging Angler: Kern County

Illustrations by Ben Engle

Earlier this year at the Pleasanton Fly Fishing Show, quite a few folks came up to me with kind words about the “Foraging Angler” column. I thanked each one and told them how much I enjoy writing it. It’s fun—and Kirsten and I genuinely have a great time hunting down new spots to eat.

One gentleman really stood out—though I apologize for not remembering exactly who it was. I had so many great conversations over those three days. He told me that when his copy of California Fly Fisher arrives, the first thing he does is flip straight to the “Foraging Angler” column to figure out where his next eatery would be and where he’d enjoy his next cheeseburger. 

It means a lot to know the column resonates with so many of you. Thanks for reading—it’s truly appreciated! 

We stopped at the 178 Bar & Grill mostly because I was starving on the way to the Upper Kern. Kirsten and I were running late, and this spot popped up at just the right time. We’re always on the lookout for new places to eat, and this turned out to be a good one.

At first glance, though, I wasn’t impressed. It was lunchtime and only one other person was in the place—not usually a great sign. But the waitress was nice and friendly with a big smile. I asked what she recommended between the 178 Burger and The Pig sandwich. Without hesitation, she said, “Go with The Pig.” So that’s what I ordered. Kirsten went with the 178 Burger. I was stoked. If both were good, I was in for a feast. I got fries on the side; she went with a salad.

The food came out in about 10 minutes, and it was delicious. Everything that should have been hot was hot, and what was supposed to be cold was cold. The Pig sandwich was piled high with house-smoked pulled pork, thick-cut bacon, sautéed peppers and onions, and two slices of Jack cheese. It was rich, juicy, and full of flavor. Delicious. Kirsten took one look and said, “I should’ve ordered that.” So, in a rare move for me, I traded half my sandwich for half of her burger.

No regrets—both were great. Her 178 Burger was excellent, perfectly cooked to medium-rare. The fries were hot and crispy, the salad was cold and crispy. What else can you ask for? The 178 Sauce was the kicker—don’t skip it. Dip your fries in it. Trust me.

Bottom line: great food, great stop. If you’re headed toward the Upper Kern, this place is well worth the detour.

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PIZZA BARN – $$
11401 Kernville Rd.
Kernville
760-376-1856
Open Sunday – Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Owner Bradley J. Alexander

I have been stopping in at the Pizza Barn for a decade now. It was my final pit stop in that neck of the woods, when I was chasing the Kern River Rainbow for my Heritage Trout Challenge. I love this place. Great people, great food, and a true down-home feel. Owner Brad Alexander and his crew have built something special here—welcoming not just locals, but folks like me who roll into Kernville looking for a great place to eat after a long drive or a long day “creekin’.”

When it comes to pizza, I am a creature of habit. I like it meaty, and our usual go-to is the Meat Lovers, which Kirsten also likes. This pizza includes salami, Canadian bacon, pepperoni, ham, seasoned beef, and Italian sausage. We order it with the white sauce. It’s fantastic. 

But on my last visit, I decided to switch it up and tried the White Water Pizza—also with white sauce. It comes with pepperoni, diced ham, mushrooms, green and red peppers, and Italian sausage. I don’t like green peppers (they give me the ol’ heartburn), so I asked for extra mushrooms instead. No problem. That pizza is my new favorite pizza. The only addition I might make to send it over the moon is adding chunks of garlic. That would be fantastic!

While pizza’s the main attraction, don’t overlook their sandwiches. One day I grabbed a turkey sandwich to take fishing. It was as good as the sandwiches Kirsten makes for our guides’ trips. It came on a soft sweet roll and was loaded with turkey—topped with Swiss, lettuce, and tomato, just how I like it. It comes with chips and makes for a perfect lunch on the water. Or, better yet, take the cold pizza with you!

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Kirsten and I found the Saddle Sore Saloon completely by accident. We were heading home from visiting our daughter Taylor in Lubbock, Texas. It had been a long haul, and we’d planned to do a little exploring east of Bakersfield on the way back. We turned off Highway 58 onto 14, then 178, then up Highway 155. We left Kernville without eating and kicked ourselves for not stopping at the Pizza Barn. 

Kirsten was driving while I gazed out the window, eyeing every creek we passed. We finally hit that moment where you say, “Next place we see, we’re stopping.” Well, that turned out to be the Saddle Sore Saloon.

A nice young lady greeted us and showed us to a booth. I ordered a vodka and Sprite, Kirsten ordered iced tea. First sip of my drink and—whoa, baby, it was hot! Our server just laughed and said, “She’s got a heavy hand.” I didn’t argue—just asked for a Sprite on the side to mellow it out. 

I ordered the 155 Burger, and Kirsten ordered the Grilled Chicken Sandwich. Both came with fries. On the way in, I noticed a soup special—chicken vegetable—so I added a cup. What I got was a full bowl, packed with chunks of chicken, veggies, egg noodles, and a lightly salted broth. It hit the spot. 

When our meals came out, I was already into my second “Splash” (my new name for that Vodka-Sprite combo). My 155 Burger was out of sight. It was huge—half-pound patty, three slices of applewood bacon, Swiss cheese, and fresh, cold veggies. I chowed down. The fries were hot and slightly salty. The secret homemade BBQ sauce was sweet with a little tang—perfect. 

Kirsten’s Chicken Sandwich was a full butterflied chicken breast hanging over the bun, topped with provolone and a pesto mayo sauce that brought it all together. It was good. I ate the second half of that sandwich somewhere around Merced. 

It’s a great place to stop and refuel—whether you’re after a hearty meal or just a “Splash” of something strong.

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VICEROY INDIAN CUISINE & BAR – $$
10650 Stockdale Highway Ste 100
Bakersfield
661-564-9621
Open Sunday – Thursday, 11 a.m. – 9 p.m.
Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

This isn’t the usual place I go to eat—not because I don’t love Indian food, but because Kirsten isn’t big on curries. (Unless we’re talking Stephen Curry—then she’s all in.) So Indian restaurants tend to be a treat when I travel solo. 

On this trip, I was in Bakersfield to do a presentation for the Kern Fly Fishers. Our friends Brian and Teresa Adams—fellow traveling anglers—recommended we try Viceroy, a family-owned Indian spot next to the Kern River and River Walk Park. Brian, Teresa, and their friend Larry Elam all joined me for a late lunch.

Viceroy offers a lunch buffet with traditional Indian dishes, fresh veggies, and a lineup of sauces. Every meal comes with naan, traditional Indian flatbread. We ordered garlic naan, which was rich and crispy with plenty of garlic. 

On my first round through the buffet, I started with a generous scoop of Basmati rice topped with Chicken Tikka Masala. The Chicken Tikka Masala is my go-to benchmark dish—if a place does it right, you know you’re in good hands. Viceroy’s version was spot-on: rich, mildly spiced, thick with tomato and onion gravy, chunks of green pepper, and finished with freshly chopped cilantro. 

On my second trip, I got another helping of rice and added house Chicken Curry on one side and Lamb Pistachio on the other. The curry had a rich tomato and yogurt-based sauce with a generous portion of chilis, ginger, and garlic. The Lamb Pistachio was out of sight. I love lamb. Tender lamb in a creamy, mildly spiced sauce. 

Everyone had a great time, ate well, and had smiles on their faces. The food was good, and the service was excellent.

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This place is what I call a classic “greasy spoon”—and I mean that in the best way. The 24th Street Café is a family-owned spot that’s been serving up breakfast since the late 1980s, when Mark Huggs first opened it. It is still family-run today. 

Kirsten, unfortunately, has never had the chance to eat here, but I’ve stopped in multiple times while I’ve been in town. It’s tucked between two one-way streets, and I’ll admit, last time I visited I ended up going the wrong way down one of them. A little embarrassing, but totally worth it once I got my meal. 

While I usually lean toward Chicken Fried Steak and Eggs for breakfast, but not at this joint. The 24th Street Café offers trout and eggs. That’s right, you can order either fried or poached trout. I ordered it fried. It comes out hot and crispy, like something you’d cook on a camp stove by the river. It’s a great twist on the standard breakfast. I usually pair it with two eggs, home potatoes, and an English muffin. I also get a side of their to-die-for country gravy. Perfect for dipping my potatoes.

Truly a must for the fly fisher.